Day 25. August 31, 2013. At the beach in Gaspe' peninsula

Here are some photos of last night!s sunset.  We slept, listening to the waves lapping on the shore.   Big group of tourists taking photos of the sunset.  No other Americans.  

This AM, we had breakfast on the beach.... Gaspe freshly-picked raspberries in yogurt.  It is European style...so much better than what you can buy in USA.

Spent the day driving east along the St. Lawrence.  I think this is the 3rd day that we have gone straight east.  The brochures say that National Geographic Traveler magazine voted this area as one of the top 20 destinations in the world.  

We stopped midday at a lighthouse and had lunch.  I had some local cheese that had peppercorns in it.  What a treat!  As George was checking the car before we took off, he discovered that the spare tire was about to fall off, due to all the bumpy roads we have been on.  We stopped in a couple of garages, but there were no welders available, since it is Labor Day weekend.  We Jerry-rigged it with bungee cords and drove on.  We made it to the end of the peninsula, and now turned south and eventually west.  

We are in Perce, still in Gaspe Peninsula.  This area is famous for whale and seal-watching, and lobster fishing.  Unfortunately, the weather turned, and is foggy and misting.  Will stay here another night as to tomorrow is supposed to be nicer.

  

Day 24. August 30, 2013

We enjoyed the AM in the national park. We biked thousands (or so it felt) of miles on the forest  trails.  Took off along noon and followed the St. Lawrence River again.  Stopped in a river town and had lunch at a cute micro-brasserie.  Stopped at a creamery to buy some local cheese.  

We are in a campsite on the river.  Literally footsteps from the beach.  We walked to a fish shop to buy some fish to cook on the grill.  Their specialty is salmon.  I just couldn't eat more, so we bought turbot instead.  We will sauté it in butter and locally-grown green onions and unusual mushrooms.  Still cool...in the low 50s.

Pictures below are from yesterday's farm brewery visit 

Day 23. August 29, 2013

When we got back last night to the campsite, the weather turned blustery.  Gale-force winds.  Too windy to make a campfire, so we huddled inside.  We made pasta with tomato sauce which I thickened with a bit of cream cheese.  Since we don't want to get the camper greasy, I didn't want to sauté any veg.  We ate a tomato (delish) that we had bought at a roadside stand.

All through the night, the wind blew and blew.  I thought the camper would fly away!  Nervous about taking down the camper later this AM.

Later...taking down the camper wasn't so bad.  George moved is to be perpendicular to the wind.

Drove about 4 hours NE, following the St. Lawrence.  Beautiful views and homes. We stopped in a farmhouse brewery.  The wife was making bread as we arrived.  We had a beer and some of their cheese around a pond, sharing the sun with geese and ducks.  The wife then came outside and herded the sheep to another area.  Their speciality is smoked salmon, and they have a little smokehouse next to their 150+year old house.

We are at a beautiful national park tonight.  Right on a bay.  We rode bikes on their trails, scaring a fawn and red fox.  Quite chilly...in the 40s.  We had chile over the campfire.   

Day 22,...August 28, 2013

We decided to stay another night at our campsite and make a day trip.  We dove across the St. Lawrence River north circumventing Quebec City.  We just hate driving in traffic.  We were in the area called Charlevoix.  We hadn't plan to visit there, but it was a "must see" according to our book "1000 Places to See Before you Die".  We took the mountain route through farmland and hills, then dropped to the bay.  We ended the route in a resort area where the rich and famous used to go....President Taft, the Vanderbilts.  It is beautiful.  The saying is that the atmosphere is more intoxicating than champagne, and you don't get a hangover!

We decided to drive a bit farther and take a 1 1/2 hour ferry back across the river rather than backtrack.  

Now that we are away from Quebec City, fewer people can speak English.  We still get along ok.  All very friendly.  On the radio, we are hearing more Cajun-sounding music...like New Orleans.

Gas is $1.36 per liter which ends up being about $5.50 US per gallon.  It is our biggest expense.  Try to only fill the tank every other day.  

Day 21. August 27, 2013. Are we in France?

We realized that everyone in our campsite has bikes, which prompted me to look at our brochures about this area.  Apparently we are on one of the best bike paths in the world.  So, we got on the bikes and headed to the ferry.  The path follows the St. Lawrence River.  Old train bed.  It really is nice...divided into 2 lanes for bikes and another lane for walkers.  To get to the path, we had to ride about 1/2 mile on a busy highway.  It was a steep decline, so we were going fast.  I was scared.  I made it, then biked 8 kilometers to downtown.  It was mostly downhill, so easy.  I kept thinking about the return uphill trip, though.  

Made it to the ferry and crossed to old Quebec City.  The picture attached is a famous hotel that dominates the skyline.  When we disembarked, most people took the funicular, as the city is so steep. We, of course, claimed the steps instead, to save money and "to get exercise".  The city is just lovely.  You really think you are in Europe.  George found a brasserie where they make their own beer.  We walked up and down and around.  We tried to find a non-touristy lunch place, so we walked some more.  Found an alley with an outdoor terrace.  It was totally local and really neat.  A bunch of office workers had brought in food and were having a gay old time with lots of wine.  We whispered to the waiter about them not being back to work, and he winked and said they were government employees..  Unfortunately, they didn't serve food.  We had drinks and walked on.  We entered a small grocery and wandered around.  In the back, they had a deli.  We bought some pâté (had a choice of about 20 kinds) and a baguette, and ate it in a cemetery.  It was so good!  Only $4, as compared to expensive cafes.

Then, ferry back to this side of the river.  George wanted to stop at a brewpub that we had visited 2 years ago.  We sat at the bar, and this fellow switched from French to English and really bended our ear.  He is actually from Wales. He was planning a veterans' get-together and asked us to help him pick the beers to serve.  So, he ordered us a bunch of samples, and then bought George a beer and gave us a lot of history info.

 Then, the bike ride home.  The 8 kilometers were mostly uphill.  After all the walking, I about died.  But I made it!  I did give up, though, on the highway part of the trip.  George picked up the car and rescued me.

Back at the campsite....cooled off in the pool, and then relaxed in the hot tub!  Dinner is rice with some tandoori spices and canned chicken (still going through leftovers).  We are using our tripod grill since the fire ring doesn't have a grate

Day 20. August 26, 2013. St. Lawrence River

We spent some time doing repairs.  Since we are taking back roads, we are driving on some bad roads. The bikes are taking a beating.  George also had to check the camper  battery which seems to be dying.

All ok now.  

Again, took back roads  toward Quebec City, following the St. Lawrence River.  The towns look like they could be plucked out of rural France.  We stopped in Levis across the river from Quebec City.  We will go there tomorrow, but wanted to spend today on this side.  We explored and found a cute winery.  We were the only visitors, and the owner could speak pretty good English.  Interesting that the vintners here are familiar with MN since most of the cold-hardy wines up here were developed at Univ of Mn.  Interesting to hear their names....Pepin, St. Croix.   Quite nice visit

Dinner is potato soup with some cheese and bread from the region.  Our campsite has lots of seasonal campers, as they all seem to know each other.  They just finished a French happy hour.  Sante!

Day 19....August 25, 2013. Oh, Canada!

We have found the French-Canadians to be so nice.  I think since they speak French that some people think they are snooty.  As we left the campsite this AM, the "cork screw hunk" ( which is what we secretly called the god-like creature I mentioned yesterday), flagged us down and gave George a list of some micro-breweries in Quebec, since George had told him we are interested.  Then, after we sailed through immigration and customs, we stopped at the Quebec Welcome Center where the guy couldn't have been nicer.  I don't think he gets much business for English version of the brochures for remote areas.  He was thrilled to give us a lot of suggestions and loaded us up with a bagful of brochures and maps.  We went back to the car, and as we were checking everything, he came running out of the Center, giving us additional pamphlets on bike trails, since  he looked out of the window and saw our bikes.  We  took his advice and took the first exit off the highway to the Quebec Wine Trail.  We drove through lots of farmland.  Bought some blueberries and apples.  We stopped at one winery.  We were the only ones not speaking French.  I can get by pretty well as a lot of words are similar to Spanish.   There was a lot of road construction and detours, so we got lost again.  

We are in moose country,as per the highway sign.  Hope to see one.  Stopped in a nice campsite.  The Canadians rank theirs (like European hotels).  This is a 4-star.  I'll see how it fares on my rating system.  The Lake Placid one was a 3.3

We FINALLY finished the salmon.  We also ate some smoked salmon that Meredith gave us, left from one of her events.  We put it on crusty bread with cream cheese.  We had it for breakast and a picnic at lunch, in a lovely town called Venice-en-Quebec.   Meredith was able to sell most of hers through an

ad on Craigslist.  We are now trying to eat some of the canned goods we had leftover from home.  Tonight we are eating quesadillas.  Using some tortillas Meredith gave us, with some New York cheese, some grilled apple-smoked bacon, and charred red onion.....with a tasty side of pork & beans.   

Day18. August 24

We spent another day in Lake Placid region.  Most of the other campers are from Quebec.  Somehow it makes camping seem more sophisticated when you hear French rather than English and  hear wine bottles being uncorked instead of canned beers being opened.  This gorgeous French Canadian who looks like he could be on the cover of some steamy romance novel came by to borrow a corkscrew.  I about swooned.

We went into the nearby town of Saranac Lake.  Also very cute.  We visited their tiny brewery...in an old car wash.  Perfect to wash down everything.  Filled our growlers.  Traded ours from Town Hall Brewery in MSP for one of theirs.  We hope we can get it through customs.

The highlight of the day was a 3-hour train ride on the Scenic Adrironack Railroad.  We took the beer and wine evening trip.  It was really fun.  There was a DJ who played great fun music, many with a train theme.  

Day 17. August 23, 2013.....Lake Placid

We did touristy things today and loved it.  We went to High Falls Gorge and hiked around.  Beautiful.  We toured the Olympic Downhill Ski venue.  it is so high!  I can't imagine anyone having the nerve to do that.  We watched kids learning how to do to it ending  in a swimming pool.  Then we took a gondola up to the tower, and then elevator up 26 stories to where the skiers take off.     Amazing!

We drove through picturesque river-side roads.  We bought firewood...honor system, just like we've seen   all over, for veggies and flowers.

We had a picnic downtown.....leftover blackened salmon on French bread.  Then we took the free Lake Placid trolley 

around town, finally stopping downtown where we did window-shopping.  We sat in Adirondack chairs and relaxed along the shore.  Then to a bar that has a great craft beer selection.  For younger drinkers...PBRs for $1.  They specialize in BBQ so we bought some brisket to eat at the campsite with leftover salad. 

Day 16....August 22, 2013

Spent the day driving to Lake Placid.  Taking the back roads is so enjoyable....makes the trip part of the fun, not just getting from Point A to Point B.  Today's trip took about 6 hours.  We drove through the Adirondack Mts.  We ended  getting lost as the roads we were on were not on the map.  Finally we stopped for directions.  (Why do men hate doing that?!). We were instructed to take Moose Gulch Road.  Drove through miles of forests.  A few houses...I always wonder where they buy their groceries.  Finally arrived to civilization.  Then we drove through a stretch of about 30 miles, following a chain of lakes.  Lots of cute lake cottages.

Lake Placid is very touristy.  It is the home of the 1932 and 1980 Winter Olympics.  We watched people training in the skating rink.  All kinds of motels, fancy inns, restaurants.  We went to 2 brew pubs.  Both were very cozy.  I imagine even cozier in the winter.  Lots of skiing nearby.  The bartender in one pub used to work in St. Augustine at A1A brewery.  Thinks he knows my brother Ken.  

 We  drove through pouring pain.  Found a state park near Lake Placid.  Small, rustic sites.  Almost got stuck finding our site.  We ate leftover salmon chowder under the shelter.  We are going to stay here through Sunday AM as finding new campsites on weekends is hard.

We developed a rating system for campsites.  Criteria are: showers, flush toilets, pit toilets, price, mosquitoes, view, cleanliness, quality of fire pits, noise level, and quality of site.  On a scale of 0-5, the Allegheny National Forest was 4.4.  The Onieta Lake State Park was a 4.0.  I think this Lake Placid one will not fare as well 

Day 15......August 21, 2013

The day started at 2:00 AM. (We know, as George checked the clock in case we had to report this.). We awoke to a big crash when my kitchen box fell from the picnic table.  We jumped up and peeked out the window, assuming it was raccoons.  Saw nothing so George opened the camper door.  There was a big black bear eating something from a plastic bag.  George crept out of the camper, stark naked, and started running around our site with pots and pans clanging to scare it away.  The bear did mosey off, finally.  When we awoke later, we checked out what he got.  I didn't think there was any food in the box, but realized there was a Baggie with restaurant condiments, including a packet of honey he was after.  It was amazing how he must have gone through the box and touched nothing except that bag.  I just wish I had been able to get some photos....of the bear and of naked George!  We drove on through the Finger Lake region of NY, stopping at one winery for a tasting.  Tonight next to Lake Oneida north of Syracuse.  Watching the sunset with sailboats, yachts, and dinner over the fire.....blackened salmon wraps

Day14.....August 20, 2013.....to Allegheny National Forest

Left the Cuyahoga area, heading for PA.  Drove by Kent State Univ and wondered what young people today think of those protests and killings.  About a 4-hour drive on back roads, and I mean back roads.  There weren't even highway numbers.  George navigated, and I drove.  He has a great sense if direction which I completely lack.  We ended up on a beautiful road in the foothills of the Allegheny Mts.  The farms were almost all Amish.  Beautifully- kept farms and houses.  Amish children were out playing; buggies in the driveways; and tons of washing on the clothesline....must be laundry day.  

The park has dozens of national forest campgrounds, so we were able to be picky.  Midweek and almost no one here.  We hit the trifecta with the site....flush toilets, immaculate showers, and a good firepit for cooking....all for $15.  We are going to create a campsite rating system, which I will describe tomorrow.  

After setting up camp, we took a drive through the park.  I wanted some wine with dinner, so we found a little town.  It was quite poor.   It is interesting to see how each state has different liquor laws.  PA is one of the strangest.  They have beer stores, with only beer in large amounts.  If you want a 6-pack, you buy it in a bar.  For wine and liquor, you go to a state-run liquor store with a sorry variety of wine.  

After our purchase, we decided to go to something called "scenic area" on the map.  My stomach kind of felt funny when we passed a sign saying "pavement ends".  Of course, we kept on going.  It was a one-lane gravel road.  It was a beautiful forest with 200-year pines.  However, there were pockets of private land where they were cutting down trees and fracking.  There were signs on some of the side roads saying "no Shell trucks".  I can understand how environmentalists and townspeople can clash, as it was obvious that there is poverty and unemployment in the area, but really sad to see the landscape destroyed.

A word about the pop-up.  Here are some pictures of us getting it set up.  George is a bit of a perfectionist so uses a level to make sure we are even.  I am in charge of the cranking. Then he uses a power drill to put down and take up the stabilizers.  The camper is really easy to set up.  We just lift up the 2 sides and lock in place

We settled in for dinner....another salmon dish of course ....stir-fry.  Not bad.  

Day 12.... August 19. Cuyahoga National Park

A bit about breakfasts.....  I cooked up lots of scrambled eggs and sausage at Meredith's house.  Each morning, we warm some up, depending on our facilities.  We have electricity today so we warmed them up in the microwave, with some chipotle chicken sausage.   Then, we toasted a tortilla on our George Forman grill, and had roll-ups.  Later this week, we hope to buy a bagel and eat it with Meredith's salmon pâté. 

We spent the day at Cuyahoga Valley National Park.  Kind of surprising to find a national park between  Cleveland and Akron.  There are hundreds of miles of hiking trails.  Seems like we hiked them all, but we only did 4 or 5.  Lots of ascents and descents so we will be feeling it tonight.  Beautiful countryside and homes that look like they are from the 19th century.  ,  Trails along the Ohio and Erie Canals.

Day 11.... August 18, 2013. To Ohio

Spent afternoon driving between Ann Arbor and Cleveland area.  We kept off highways and drove through rural Ohio.  Beautiful farms, quaint towns.....real Americana.  We are in Stow, Ohio near the Cuyahoga National Park where we will visit tomorrow.  We are in a nice municipal park @ $12/night.  

Food today:  salmon pâté picnic at road-side park for lunch.  Salmon/vegetable chowder with rice for dinner over campfire.  

Here are some pictures of our Aliner camper.  We specifically wanted a small camper without a bathroom.  It has an almost-queen size bed, tiny refrig, tiny microwave, and 2-burner stove.  The bed can turn into a dinette, but we leave it set-up as a bed since we use campsite picnic tables.   We washed sheets, etc at Meredith's, so everything is clean.  Nice!

Day 10 August 17, 2013. Salmon management

We just love Ann Arbor.  Last night we  took the bus downtown.  People everywhere,  especially  strolling the streets and sitting in sidewalk cafes.  We went to an outdoor beer garden.  It is the grounds of a real home and garden center.  We picked up a pizza from one of the food trucks.  I love the international vibes of the city.  At our next table was a family of 4.  Asian dad, Caucasian mom. 2 darling boys, all happily eating Mexican food.  While waiting for our bus home, we had a glass of wine at a rooftop Italian restaurant.  

This morning, we had to tackle the salmon as Meredith's refrigerator also has all her food for her clients' food for the upcoming week.  We made:  salmon pâté, salmon burgers, and cured salmon for salads.  We froze some filets for cooking over the campfire.  We also prepped eggs and sausage for the week on the road.  

Since we don't have a real address any more, we found a mail-forwarding company in South Dakota.  We ask them to collect it and then send to us periodically, wherever we are.   We received a package today from them so spent time handling bills, etc.  

We drove to a little town with a brewery that was having a fundraiser.  Nice.  Then came home for dinner.......salmon sushi and ikura (salmon roe) sushi.  

Day 9.....August 15, 2013. With Meredith and Gautham

We are trying to figure out what to with 100+ pounds of cleaned salmon.  For now, we have packaged and frozen most.  Will make some recipes to take with us when we leave.  Meredith also cured the roe so that it tastes just like ikura that you get at a sushi restaurant.  Gautham is going to see if they can go into business with Captain Dave, as currently he and most fishermen just throw it away.

One of Meredith's clients is a winery owner.  She prepares food for wine pairing events there.  Today, we visited the winery and sampled some excellent wines with the assistant winemaker.  Then we visited the owner's  private wine-tasting room and the work area.  The owner is a pilot so it has an airplane decor (including a real airplane) inside.  We tasted wines that are still in their stainless steel vats, waiting to

be bottled.  Yum!  The winery is outside of Ann Arbor.  It and all the houses around it share an airstrip, and their garages attached to their homes are actually hangars.  

We came home for dinner.....grilled salmon, of course!