Day 85. October 30, 2013. Back to T-Shirt and Shorts!

I wanted to take full advantage of the electrical hook-up at this site, so made a nice breakfast.  I poached eggs in the microwave and toasted bread on our George Forman grill-see picture.  I also heated the water in the electric tea kettle to make dish washing less onerous.  

We watched the sun  rise over the lake with our coffee.  So quiet.  Again, we are the only ones here in this area.

On the road, we stopped at a road-side stand and bought veg and apples from the mountains.  

Our target was the Congeree National Park, outside of Columbia, SC.  It is a type of swamp with huge pines and other trees.  We hiked on their 2.5 mile elevated boardwalk, on a self-guided tour.  It was nicely done.  As a bonus, we saw some wildlife...black snake, hawk, turtles and 6 huge wild boar.  We were glad that we were on the boardwalk, and not on the ground with them!

We were disappointed to find out that the park only has tent camping.  So, we found a nice state park nearby.  I'm getting spoiled, as we have electricity again tonight.  

It is warm here..in the 70s.  Switched to T-shirts and shorts.  Nice!

For dinner, I made meatballs and used up the leftover ravioli.  I sautéed summer squash, onions, and mushrooms and added

to the sauce.  Yummy,  Paired nicely with Chilean carmenere.  

Day 84. October 29, 2013. Headin' South

We drove on the Blue Ridge Parkway in NC, in the western section where we hadn't been before.  We lucked out on a lunch spot.  Saw a small micro-brewery off the highway.  They don't serve food, but allow people to bring in food.  We popped into a next-door BBQ place and bought some pulled pork. It was warm enough to eat outside, so we drank a beer and made sandwiches outside.

We found a beautiful state park outside of Spartanburg, SC .  I insisted on electricity since we haven't had it for several days.  I felt like I was in the lap of luxury.  It also has free hot showers.  Pay ones are challenging as you never know when the minutes are up, and it can be dicey being left all soapy with no more water.  This one, however, was free and glorious.

I took advantage of electricity and we had a great dinner.  I boiled water in the microwave and cooked chanterelle-stuffed ravioli with a sauce of sautéed onions and garlic in white wine.  I added sautéed kale.  Quite gourmet!

We have a beautiful view of the lake.  

It is a campsite geared toward horse people.  In another section of the campground, the campers with horses are set-up.  The trailers have one section for the people and one for the horses.  They have horse trails and a show ring

Day 83. October 28, 2013. Great Smoky Mountains

We left Mammoth Cave, KY early AM.  This destination was a bit out of our way, quite west.  We even are in Central Time Zone.  Now we are backtracking a bit, heading back southeast.  We drove through 3 states today....KY, TN and NC.  Drove through scenic back roads.  Saw a lot of churches and trailers.

Some of the places were very "country".  We saw posters to vote "no" to evil "intoxicating liquor sales" ....to keep the county dry.  

We camped in the Great Smoky Mountains.  I hadn't planned on stopping, so we hadn't shopped for food. So, we dipped into our emergency food box and had canned chili that I jazzed up with sautéed onions and topped with our leftover cheese.

See picture of wine bottle, appropriately called "happy camper".  Also, picture of me with dish washing bucket.....my least favorite task while camping.  I'm standing in front of the old, original bathroom.  Buildings like these were built by the CCC in the 1930s.  Many of the national parks were built by them, as a government project to help the USA out of the depression.

      

Day 82. October 27, 2013. Mammoth Cave National Park, KY

We spent the day at the park....one goal is to visit as many national parks as possible.  This is the longest cave in the world...more than 400 miles.  We went on two 2-hour tours.  In one tour, we had to squeeze through "Fat Man's Misery " and "Tall Man's Misery".  On another tour we saw stalactites and stalamites.  Great ranger-led tours.  Nice leisurely day.  Walked back to the campsite between tours for lunch.  Much milder here.  

We went on a short drive.  Have to be careful yo avoid all the deer and wild turkey.mmwe went across a river on thus car ferry...only 2of this type in the USA.  Then, bike ride before dinner.  

For dinner, I de-boned the rest of the grilled chicken thighs.  I made a sort of curry with the chicken, broccoli and canned new potatoes.  Went well with a Pinot Noir.  

Day 81. October 26, 2013. Cumberland Gap

Cumberland Gap is in VA, TN, and KY.  The campsite is in KY.  We watched a program in the visitors' center, then drove up to Pinnacle Peak where we could see all 3 states.  We drove westward about 4 hours.  Lunch was an uneventful PB &J sandwich in the car.  

We arrived in Mammoth Cave National Park about 3:00.  We are trying to hit as many national parks as possible.  We biked around the campground.  

Dinner was delicious....grilled chicken.  I marinated thighs with Worchestire, olive oil and a bit of BBQ sauce.  Really moist.  I also roasted an onion quarter by baking it in aluminum foil  with butter, salt and pepper.

After dinner we went to a ranger-led informational talk about bats.  Nicely done,

We wear about 4 layers of clothes all the time, along with our ski caps

Day 80. October 25, 2013

We woke up to a winter wonderland.  We slept cozily thanks to electric blanket and heater.  The snow was a surprise.  Really pretty.  We had a super breakfast, using electrical facilities ....George Forman grill to make paninis left from a free sandwich we got from a fast-food place, and cheesy grits.  Took a nice hike along a stream for some exercise, and then headed out.  

We drove through coal mine country in VA and WV.  Pretty poor.  Snow was pretty in the mountains and trees.  

We arrived in Cumberland National Forest, after about a 4-hour drive.  We hiked a bit and met a neighbor who gave us a huge amount of wood from the sawmill where he works.  Great campfire.  Dinner was not a culinary achievement.  We had Spam and cheese sandwiches using our pie-iron.  We didn't judge the timing very well, and they were burnt to a crisp.  

 

Day 79. October 24, 2013. COLD!

Our last night in the Shenandoah National Park.  We had a bad night.  The battery in our camper died, so the heater would not run.  It got down to 29 degrees. We were pretty miserable all night long.  I kept thinking though, of the poor hiker sleeping alone in a tent.  We drove through snow and sleet much of the day.  We stopped in Greenbrier Resort in White Sulphur Springs, West VA.  It is amazingly posh and huge.  We walked around.  They are decorating for Christmas lready.  This is also where Steve Ryclin did BBQ University show on PBS. 

We drove through West VA mountains most of the day.

We thought we would stay in a motel since it was in the 30s and snowing, but miraculously around 5:00 near a beautiful state park, the sun came out, so we decided to camp.  We have electricity at this campground, so our heater would work.  We also found out that our old electric blanket still works, so used that, too.  

It was too cold to make a campfire, so we huddled inside for a nice happy hour with raw oysters on saltines.  Dinner from the microwave....leftover fried rice and sautéed Spam.  

Day 78. October 23, 2013. Snow

We took some hikes along the Appalachian Trail, which is along our campground.  Then to another national park lodge for lunch.  It is the highest peak in the park.  While we were inside, it started to snow!  Very pretty!  Three tour buses pulled in, so we decided to go elsewhere.  We left the park and drove to a village in the valley.  About 10degrees warmer.  Found a great deli.  Split a portobello sandwich with goat cheese.  

This campsite is also serious about bears....see sign and food container.  

It was cold again at dinner.  Around the fire, we chatted with the other 2campers.  One is a guy back-packing on the Trail.  Another is a 90-year old guy traveling alone.  We cooked soup over the campfire...canned chicken/veg and I added leftover stuffed baked  potato and peas.  Really hit the spot. 

Day 77. October 22, 2013...still in Shenandoah

We met our camp hosts and they gave us some great camping tips.  Almost every campground has these hosts.  They are volunteers who get to camp free.  In turn, they take care of after-hours registration, and are a back-up to the rangers.  This couple are from Texas, and they spent the entire camping season here.  We may do that one day.  

It was so cold  and windy that we cooked and ate breakfast inside.  Great leftover meal....eggs with potato, cheese and spinach.  

We moved to a different campsite within the Shenandoah, so we could see a different part.  We learned that this used to be the campsite designated for Negroes during segregation.  

We were too sore to hike so went to an interpretative center.  This other campground  has a a lodge.  We had a drink and enjoyed the views...like a MN "up north" atmosphere. 

Our new campsite also is almost empty...2other campers.  We get spoiled....have bathrooms, sink, etc to ourselves.  Deer roam all over, eating acorns around our camper. 

There are not any stores around, so we are eating leftovers and canned goods.  I made beans and rice, with rice I had made in Winston-Salem.  Side dish was sautéed spinach, left from salad,  with onions and garlic.  

Day 76. October 21, 2013. Another beautiful day in Shenandoah

Beautiful fall day..crisp and sunny.  We took a  4-mile hike that was supposed to be "moderately easy".  It was brutal... 2 miles straight down to a waterfall, then 2 miles back up.  Great exercise, though.  We had a picnic lunch afterwards...barbecue and coleslaw leftover from a BBQ shack in Winston-Salem.  North Carolina has a unique BBQ style...more vinegary than most.  Then we drove to Charlottesville, VA, home of Univ of VA.  Neat  college town.  We visited Monticello, Thomas Jefferson's home.  Very nice tour.  Back to the campsite.  Wind really picked up.  In 30s at night.  Thank goodness for our heater!

Day 75. October 20, 2013. Try try again!

We left Winston-Salem for Shenandoah National Park, where we had tried entering on October 2, but were unsuccessful due to government shut-down.  This time was no problem, and the leaves are at their peak.  I was afraid that campgrounds would be full, due to the leaf-lookers, but they are almost empty.  There were 10 campers in the 220-site we were in.  The ranger said normally they are turning people  away this time of year, but apparently due to the shut-down, people just made alternate plans.  This is the perfect camping experience to get us back in the routine, after staying in houses the last 3 weeks.  Everything is perfect ....on a mountaintop with gorgeous views, sunrises and sunsets.  Clean flush toilets ( but for some reason only the men's side is heated), great fire puts, dish washing area with hot water, and only $7.50!  

We took a 4-mile hike.  All straight up and straight down.  

All kinds of wildlife.  A deer was about a foot from our picnic table.  A fox chased a rabbit through our site.  The rangers are really concerned about bears, and required us to sign forms promising that we would not leave food or dishes out.  

For dinner, we had baked potatoes  in aluminum foil cooked

deep in the coals, stfuffed with left-over diced steak, onions and carrots.  The night culminated with a huge harvest moon over the mountains.  

Day 74. October 19, 2013. Winston-Salem, NC

We spent time gearing up for our next leg of the trip.  We rearranged items in the car and camper.  Seems like we have more stuff, rather than the other way around.  We had lunch with George's sister in a downtown brewpub.   New bike rack seems to be working.   Tomorrow we will head to  Shenandoah National Park.  There will probably be a lot of "leaf lookers" in the mountains.

We have been staying in houses since October 1, so we need to get back into the camping routine.  I made some fried rice for later this week and egg salad for sandwiches on the road...needed to use up eggs we bought.

 

Day 73. October 18, 2013. With family in Winston-Salem

George spent the morning at a bike shop...buying and refitting a new bike rack for the camper.  We hope this one works better.  I took a walk around the neighborhood and found George's boyhood home.  Fall leaves piled up everywhere.  So nice and crisp!  I like to look at all the mansions...from the days of Reynolds Tobacco and Hanes underwear, mostly.

We went to George's other sister's house for dinner.  Flat iron steaks on the grill.  Sat outside around her firepit.  Nice evening. Perfect temperatures 

Day 72. October 17, 2013. Inland, here we come!

Our last day at the beach was gorgeous.  The porpoises gave us a good-bye show from our deck.  Then to Winston-Salem, NC, George's hometown.  We drove through a national park.  Very pretty.  For lunch, we were in the middle of nowhere, so stopped in a little town's only cafe.  We had some communication challenges with the order-taker.  She couldn't understand my Yankee accent.  We ordered a hamburger "all the way" which we discovered means with coleslaw, onions, mustard and catsup all on the burger.  Quite tasty.

Staying in our cousin's extra house.  We met up with George's former college roommate for dinner.  George and I split two appetizers,  both a gourmet nod to the South.....

++ one was a fried green tomato "stack" lightly fried and served layered with homemade pimiento cheese (a Southern delight) with Apple -smoked bacon twist for garnish.

++second was shrimp and grits.....blackened jumbo shrimp with Cajun cream sauce served over a grit cake.  

All with their beer special...$2 craft beers.  Wowwy!

Day 71. October 16, 2013

We went on an outing to visit beach towns south of here.  Ended up in North Myrtle Beach, SC.  George had gone fishing and golfing in this area when he was a kid.  Interesting to see the changes....high rises have replaced most little cottages.

We visited a winery.  Who knew that South Carolina would have decent wine!  Beautiful garden setting with live music.  Very pleasant.

George caught the big one at last!  After hours of fishing, see the huge catch!  (don't look too carefully, though...it's a fake)

For dinner, I made a pasta with grilled shrimp and scallops.  We went to a seafood shop and bought the ingredients.....

, fairly inexpensive.  Added kalamata olives, feta and artichoke hearts.  I made the sauce starting with broth made by sautéing shrimp shells in butter and white wine.   Easy and really adds nice flavor.  

Day 70. October 15, 2013....Showtime at the beach!

Another nice day at the beach.  Beautiful sunrise and sunset.  We took a long walk.  It is fun to look at the houses along the oceanfront, and those on man-made canals that go out to the inland waterway.  Huge yachts...probably heading toward Florida.  

We sat on the beach fishing and reading.  Along came a big school of porpoises.  Usually, you see a few and then they move on.  These, however, stayed for about an hour herding up fish and frolicking.  We could see the fish they were chasing.  Then, the birds joined the fun, diving to catch their share.  

We checked on the turtle nests....no action

 

Day 69. October 14, 2013

Another day at the beach.  Each day starts out a bit cloudy, then clears off.  High temps are in low 70s, so very comfortable.  George and I planned a day trip to nearby Bald Head Island, thinking George would fit right in.  (Haha).  Found out that the pedestrian ferry is $25 each from Southport, so went to Plan B.....The visitors' center in Southport gave us some ideas.  They told us that there have been a lot of movies filmed there, including Safe Haven, a 2012 movie.  Lots of old well-kept homes.  Reminded us of Charleston, SC.  We walked around and looked at boats and homes for sale.  

We had lunch in an outdoor cafe on the riverfront.  We split a rock bass po' boy sandwich.  Super good.  George had a Cheerwine....a type of cherry pop popular in the South.  

We came back to the beach house to relax.  Then back to Southport for dinner.  It was high tide so the parking lot was flooded.  The restaurant provided a little bridge walkway.  Interesting.  We shared jalapeño hush puppies as an appetizer.  Yum!

Day 68. October 13, 2013. Lazy beach day

George fixed shrimp and grits for breakfast.  A big hit.  We went to a raw bar for lunch, then to a seafood market to buy fish for dinner.  We got gray snapper.  Lots to choose from. And everything was very fresh.  Fished and read in PM.  George fixed the fish on the George Forman grill...perfect way to do it.  I made veggie fried rice to accompany it.

After dinner we checked out a turtle nest.  This island is a sanctuary.  The eggs are supposed to "boil" in a few days.  The nest is protected by volunteers.  Nothing much happening yet.  

Day 67. October 12, 2013. Sunny day at the beach

Beautiful day at the beach.  Sat on porch overlooking ocean and read 2 books!  Needing a haircut, I drove to a nearby town to find a beauty shop.  It was VERY Southern.  Fun to listen to the conversations.  

Day 66. October 11. Seagull Poop Attack!

Still at Holden Beach, NC.  We walked on the beach and fished some.  George and I went on an outing.  First we went to a village with lots of shrimp boats.  Then on to Wilmington, NC. Beautiful old restored houses.  Had lunch in a downtown brewery and bought a growler for the folks at the beach house.

We came back via a car ferry.  The ferry connects many of the islands.  As we were docking, a seagull pooped all over me....on the front of my shirt (see photo), on my jacket, iPad, and face.  Yuck!!  One of the ferry guys said being pooped on is supposed to bring you good luck.  

We bought boiled peanuts to munch on and blood worms for fishing. Not sure what they are, but supposedly they are good bait.  

Another couple arrived, so now we are 8.  We boiled up shrimp for dinner.  Yum!  Also cornbread, which I think is a Southern tradition with shrimp.  

Day 65. October 10, 2013. Beach day

Another day at Holden Beach.  Nice and lazy.  Read books, fished, and walked on the beach.  Another couple (friends of George's sister) came for a few days.  Still cool...in the 60s.  We went to a fish place for dinner recommended in the book "1000 Places to go before you Die".  

George and I split a grouper sandwich.  Very tasty.  It reminded me of a Florida fish shack.  

Day 64. October 9, 2013. To the beach!

We drove across the state of NC.....from northwestern  mountainous Asheville to southeastern Holden Beach, which is near SC state line.  Took about 7 hours.  We looked for a picnic spot, but couldn't find one, so just parked in a country church parking lot and had chicken salad sandwiches.  Hope the Methodists didn't mind our lunching with them

Holden Beach is lovely.  Not much commercialism, just houses.  During the summer, it gets busy, but we practically have the beach to ourselves, this time of the year.  Tropical Storm Karen is not moving out very fast.  It is cloudy and cool.  We are at a beach house with George's sister Judy (see photo)  and her husband.  Really nice beach house.   I am getting spoiled staying in homes rather than our camper!

Day 63. October 8, 2013. Asheville day 2

We decided to stay another day in Asheville since it is so fun.  Also, from here we are going to Holden Beach, NC, where George's sister is renting a beach house.  We thought we would stay here and let Tropical Storm Karen leave the area before our arrival.

We drove to a nearby town for a hike and visit to brewpub.  We had super flatbread pizza with a poached egg on top for lunch.  On the menu, I read that some of their pizza crusts are infused with Parmesan and crushed black pepper.  I think I will try that the next time I make pizza.

Then, back to the motel where we dropped the car and took the bus downtown.  The bus was full of characters.  We went to a few more breweries.  I gave up on beer and drank water.  One of the best breweries was called Wicked Weed...see photo of beer coaster on how it got its name.  

Just stumbled upon a great place for dinner.  Ben's Tune-Up.  It is an old garage converted to a restaurant.  We had no idea of the menu, but it turned out to be very authentic Japanese.  We split an onigiri (honorable rice ball), and bowl of home-made ramen noodles.  

Bus back to motel.  Nice day!

Day 62. October 7, 2013.....Asheville

See photo of cabin where we stayed.  The mountains are full of beautiful, huge homes like this.  

We drove about 3hours (other direction) on the Blue Ridge Parkway.  Many of the parks and trails were closed due to the shutdown.  We did find one trail to hike along a pretty waterfall.  We visited Mt Mitchell which has the highest elevation of any mountain in the East.  The clouds covered up the view, though.

Stopped in Little Switzerland where we took a photo of "my" street..see photo.

Arrived in Asheville famished so went to a pub.  Had unusual chicken wings.....garlic sauce, not typical buffalo sauce.  Good!  Then went to Visitor Center for help with a hotel.  We wanted to stay near downtown.  The cheapest one they recommended was $200/night.  I said no.  So, we found a $50/night motel on the outskirts that has bus stops nearby to downtown for 50 cents!  Asheville is the beer Mecca of the East.  It has 12 micro-breweries plus a ton of craft beer pubs.  We visited two.  Both good.  One has "wet noise Wednesdays" when guests are encouraged to bring their dogs to the pub's patio.  They get free dog treats made from spent beer grains and $2 of each pizza goes to a dog shelter.  

This is a real hippy/artsy town. The Biltmore House is nearby, so quite a few tourists.

To save money, we had sandwiches in the room....leftover grilled chicken with cheese, warmed in the microwave.  Not bad!

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Day 61. October 6, 2013

Another day in the mountains.  We did some hikes in the Smoky Mountain and drove along the Blue Ridge Parkway.  We went to Boone to a micro-brewery.  Boone is a real college town....Appalachian State Univ.  

In keeping with our plan to eat local, we had grits for breakfast, and grilled ribs with fried okra and potato salad for 

See y'all!

Day 60. October 5, 2013....in the South!

We are definitely in the South.  As we drove into North Carolina, I heard and saw the signs....a McDonalds advertising sweet potato pies, kudzu creeping all over the trees, Waffle Houses, tobacco fields, grits on hotel breakfast menus, and a greeting of "hey" rather than "hi"

We had great sushi in Winston-Salem with George's sister, brother and his wife for lunch.   We left the camper there and headed for the mountains.  We drove along the beautiful Blue Ridge Parkway.  Even though it is a national park, they have left it open.  The trees are just beginning to turn.  The cabin is between Blowing Rock and Boone.  We stopped first in Blowing Rock which is a really cute town, filled with great  restsurants  and shops.  Went to a packed micro-brewery.  Then on to the cabin.  It is about 20 degrees cooler here.

The cabin belongs to George's brother Fred and wife.    Over the years, they have generously let us use it.  When we lived in Florida and Georgia, it was always a real  treat to come here in the summers as a cool respite from the heat.  The girls loved it.  Seeing the sites has brought back fond memories of....Tweetsie Railroad, gem mining, trout farm fishing, tubing, and hiking.  One year we came at Christmas and got snowed in.  George and I hitch-hiked to town to buy the girls sleds to play with in the unexpected snow.  It is a beautiful log cabin with gorgeous views of the mountains.  

Day 59. October 4, 2013

Drove from Lynchburg, VA to Winston-Salem to visit more of George's family.  Stopped in Chapel Hill where George had gone to school----Univ of NC.  Neat town.  We had lunch with a cousin who had been a prof there.  For those old enough to remember, he is first cousin to the Smothers Brothers...a comedy team in the 60s.  Makes George a 3rd cousin.  One of his students wrote the TV show, Archer.  Another of his students is a famous author....Clyde Edgerton.  

This cousin has a collection of 1400 pop-up books, one of the largest in the world.    

Hottest day we have had so far.  Glad we are not camping.  Staying at a cousin's house.  They have 3 houses...the big house, the little house, and the tiny house.  We were in the tiny house..see photo

Day 58. Oct 3, 2013

We are with George's sister again.  Such generous hosts.  If the government shut-down ends, we want to go back north a bit to Shenandoah National Perk, another national park in West Virginia, and   Greenbrier Resort.  If that doesn't happen, we will head south to be with friends and family in NC, GA, and FL.  We are disappointed, though, as our plan includes visiting most/all of the national parks.

Today we went to a nice Virginia winery.  They have surprisingly nice wines here.  See cute tree on vineyard lawn, with Appalachians in the background 

 

Day 57. Oct 2, 2013

We are staying with George's sister and her husband in Lynchburg. They have a lovely home and it is nice to settle down for a few days.  

We went to a microbrewery that is just starting up.  Sat outside enjoying beautiful fall weather.  George worked on camper maintenance.  I cleaned and tried to organize a bit better.

Day 56. October 1, 2013....Government Shut-Down

The national park ranger came around and told  us that we would have to leave in one day, as all national parks were closing.  We were about the only campers left.  Then, an ABC newsman and cameraman stopped by to interview us for the evening news.  He asked how the shut-down would affect us.  We explained that we were leaving DC anyway today, but had plans to go to Shenandoah National Park later and would see if we could get in and camp.   I wish we could have seen ourselves in the news!

Just found out that did include our interview.  Hope this link works....

http://www.wjla.com/video/2013/10/government-shutdown-2013-national-parks-closed.html

As we left, a little doe ran across the road (next to the entrance 

This area is experiencing a stink bug take-over.  They are everywhere.  See photo.  We had to shoo them out of the camper.

We drove out of DC (yucky traffic)  west toward Shenandoah.   We thought that even though the park would be closed that we could drive on the 150-mile Skyline Drive.  But no, we found that road was barricaded (see photo).  We followed another pretty road through the mountains, arriving in Lynchburg, VA.  We are going to stay with George's sister and husband for a few days.  

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Days 54 and 55. Conference in Washington DC

It was so great seeing friends from Mayo and HHRAM at the ASHHRA conference.  George and I commuted in from the campsite.  We went out to eat with some vendors, so some of the return trips were late at night.  I had originally been a bit afraid, but all was good.  On Sunday, we left the camper in the campsite and the car in the park-and-ride, as we spent that night in the conference hotel.  Again, I had been a bit worried, but everything turned out well.  Two of my Mayo colleagues and I presented at one of the sessions.  We think it went well.  During free time, George and I walked to Georgetown.  I forgot to change into my walking shoes.  After about an hour, George went up to a total stranger and said   "My wife's feet hurt and I need a beer.....any place nearby for a craft beer?".  We found a nice spot, relaxed, and took the metro back to the hotel.  

Folks seem to know that we like hot sauce.  An ASHHRA colleague gave me a set of Texas Pete sauce that is hard to find.  We are also enjoying other sauces my Mayo staff gave me.  See photo.

Now    that the conference is over, we don't have a fixed schedule.  We can drive less, spending less on gas.  We will wait and see if the government shuts down, as that will change our plans to stay in national parks.