January 13, 2016. Crossing the border

CAMPGROUND:  Copper Mountain RV Park.  Full hook-ups, rec room, wifi, great bathrooms.  $21/night.  4stars

LOCATION:  40 miles east of Yuma, Arizona

WEATHER:  Cool. Highs about 70

We said good-bye to our Alaska neighbors in San Felipe and drove north about 2 hours through really desolate country.

We hit sprawling, ugly, polluted Mexicali about noon, supposedly the best (least busy) time to cross the border.  After a slight episode  of getting lost, we got in the line to cross.  It took about 2 hours waiting in line.  Entrepreneurs selling everything under the sun strolled by.....snacks, honey, pop, beer, Jesus pictures.  There were beggars and one smart guy asking people to donate produce that couldn't cross into California.  Lots of guys wanting to wash windshields.  It was a real circus.

The actual inspection was pretty quick.  They brought out a huge German Shepard to search the trailer.  

We drove east through lots of vegetable fields and through Yuma, home of the RV snowbirds.  We were looking for BLM camping (free) just to stay the night.  It started getting dark, and we couldn't find any, so stopped at this RV park.  What a find!  It is in the middle of nowhere but has lots of amenities.  Most of the campers are here for the winter.  It is great for ATV afficionados.  We gathered around a campfire with some friendly Canadians (of course).  They told us it's the cheapest RV park in Arizona at $191/month.  

This brings me to the topic of my campground/RV park 5-star rating system.  I give a 1-5 star rating (although I was once tempted to go with negative one star) based on a combination of facilities, amenities, location, overall atmosphere, and value/price.  My brother commented that I was probably too generous with a 3-star rating last night in San Felipe due to the nasty bathroom and shower door that constantly flew open to the Main Street while I was showering.  However, a beachfront location goes a long way.  Here, I would give it a 5 based on the amenities, facilities and price, but it is located off the Interstate in the middle of the desert.  

DINNER:  The last of the Mahi-Mahi caught in Todos Santos.  This was the leftover fish/udon noodle dinner from a few nights ago.  Not too exciting, third time around.....

January 12, 2016. Last full day in Baja

CAMPGROUND: Second night at La Palapa RV Park

LOCATION:  San Felipe, Baja California, Mexico in NE 

WEATHER:  Cold.  Highs about 60. Windy

Today is our last full day in Baja.  It has been a great adventure.  Today, we had several "lasts".....

Last cheap, delicious guacamole, chips, and margarita

Last bad Mexican beer.  

Last sign for any pharmaceuticals you want....

Last beautiful sunrise or sunset over the Pacific or Sea of Cortez.

San Felipe is a fishing town.  From our trailer, we see the shrimpers docked in the bay waiting for the wind to die down.

We watched sea lions from our trailer.

We walked downtown along the malecon, the waterfront.  It reminded me of Daytona Beach, kind of tacky with souvenir shops and restaurants.  The town seems pretty depressed.  We found a place for lunch and tried a stingray taco.  Very interesting!  We bought some shrimp from a vendor from his truck.  Nice big ones.

DINNER:  Shrimp, of course!  Started with shrimp cocktail.   Entree was shrimp sautéed in butter with garlic and onions. Served over cheesy polenta.  I buy Mexican chihuahua cheese for cooking here.  

January 11, 2016. Rustic NE Baja

CAMPGROUND:  La Palapa RV Park. Right on water. Cute overhead pavilions. Nasty bathroom. Shower broken.  Full hook-up.  Wifi.  $25/night.  3 stars

LOCATION:  San Felipe, Baja California, Mexico

WEATHER:  Quite cool and very windy. Highs in 50s

George spent the morning fixing the table that had broken on yesterday's crazy drive.  The beach was beautiful in the morning.

We had it to ourselves...

The porta-potties are lined up artistically......

After the repair work, we drove north along the east coast.  There are no real towns, just "campos" where clusters of houses and RVs line the coast.  

After about 2 hours, we arrived at our destination, San Felipe.  We found this  RV park that someone had recommended.  

We found a place for a late lunch.....octopus burger, and did some shopping.  An RV moved in next to us.....from Alaska.  We've heard that Canadians and Americans like to come here, as they can avoid the bad traffic in Los Angeles, crossing over east of there.  

DINNER: A repeat of the Japanese fish dinner from last week.  George grilled the last of the Mahi Mahi the family had caught in Todos Santos. I made a sauce with ginger, garlic, onion, and soy sauce.  Served over udon. Side was sautéed cabbage.

January 10, 2016. Adventures of driving in Baja!

CAMPGROUND:  Unnamed beach near Gonzaga Bay.  This is now just a beach, but looks like at one time was a campground.  A few pit toilets, palapas with grills.  No services.  Free.  4 stars

LOCATION:  On Sea of Cortez, south of San Felipe.  Northeast coast of peninsula

WEATHER:  Cool.  Windy. Highs in 60s

We awoke to a beautiful sunrise on the Sea of Cortez.  We have had the best of both worlds..beautiful sunsets in Todos Santos facing the Pacific.

We got an early start.  We left the campground at 7:30, right when the Mexican vendors were arriving to sell water, shrimp, vegetables, and fruits.

We drove and drove and drove.....11 hours altogether, 333 miles.  Most of the landscape was cacti and rocks.

Our plan was to stop in Guerrero Negro, on the Pacific side, where we had camped before, to go on a whale-watching tour.  We arrived at about noon, and they weren't going out in the afternoon, as they needed at least 4 customers.  We debated about spending the night and hoping that 2 more people would arrive for a trip tomorrow, but then decided we didn't want to wait so long.  So, we kept on going.  

We went through 3 different military checkpoints plus a vegetable checkpoint today.  Unfortunately, they make us lose  a lot of time.  One of the federales asked George for our flashlight.  At first, it was a bit of a demand, then he changed his tune and offered to buy it.  

We have been hearing about a new highway being built along the eastern coast that crosses the US border in Mexicali.  The road is supposedly excellent and faster.  However, they are still working on the part connecting Highway 1 on the west, across the mountains to the east coast.  We heard from one couple that it was terrible.  Someone else said it was ok but very slow.  When we got to the junction, I asked a trucker parked at a mechanic shop whether it was passable.  He said he has seen cars go through, but he wouldn't do it.  We stood in the road trying to decide what to do.  Then, a gringo drove by, coming from the east.  We asked him, and he recommended that we go.  He said it was very rough for about 25 miles, then pavement.  He said it is worth it as this part of the east coast is still pristine, and once the highway is finished, there will be a lot of traffic and development.  So, we decided to go for it.

It was a dirt road with big rocks and potholes.  We had to drive really slowly.  The 25 miles took 2 hours.  We met just two cars coming the opposite way.  We couldn't believe the odds....one was pulling an Airstream.  We figured if they could make it, so could we.  

It was getting dark when we hit the pavement, at the coast, so we immediately started looking for somewhere to camp.  We saw this beach and stopped.  

With much trepidation, we opened the camper to see how it had fared the trip. What chaos!  The top of the dinette had somehow popped off and had flown across the trailer.  Thank goodness it didn't crash into the microwave or anything.  Miscellaneous screws and bolts were lying on the floor.  The closet was a wreck.  

What an adventure!  We are glad we did it.  We are looking forward to seeing a different part of Baja, rather than retrace our steps back through Ensenada and Tijuana.  We celebrated with a Scotch (George) and a glass of wine (me) in Riedel stemware that miraculously made the trip just fine.

DINNER:  Sautéed scallops with onions, pepperoncini and some roasted red peppers I had made and canned last summer when we were in California.  

January 9, 2016. Heading north up Baja Peninsula

PCAMPGROUND:  Playa Santispac.  Just a nice long beach parking lot. Beautiful location.  No services.  $6/ night, but no one around to collect our money.  Two restaurants/bars. 

LOCATION:  Bahia de Concepcion on east coast. About 15 miles south of Mulege

WEATHER:  Cooler. Windy. Highs around 70

Our goal was to leave the Todos Santos rental house at 8:00.  We left at 8:30..... Not too bad.  We started on the Pacific Coast, then to La Paz, on the Sea of Cortez.  Happily we found the (unmarked) bypass and didn't get lost.  On northward, zigzagging back to the Pacific.  

We drove non-stop for 81/2 hours, stopping only for lunch, for gas, and then for a military checkpoint.  This one was pretty serious.  They were looking for drugs.  We had to get out of the truck, and they also inspected the camper, even under the bed.  They look pretty serious with their huge rifles.

Our destination was Playa Santisac located on a huge, beautiful bay, back on the east coast.  We didn't stop there on the way down, but knew it would be a good spot for our return.

We are just footsteps from the water...

The party was just getting started at the beach bar.

We talked with some Canadians who are staying here a few weeks.  Some Mexican entrepreneurs parked their van, selling blankets and jackets since it was a little cool. 

DINNER:  The restaurant roasted a whole pig which looked delicious, but we need to use up leftovers. We had bouillabaisse that Meredith had made in Todos Santos.  It will be leftovers for several more days!

We went to bed early listening to the gringo band at the bar.

January 8, 2016. Farewell to our family

LOCATION:  Last night in Todos Santos, Baja California, Mexico

WEATHER:  Beautiful. Highs in ipper 70s

We drove to Cabo Airport, about an hour's drive.   On our way, we stopped at a shop where they weave Mexican blankets.

  

Meredith bought one for the neighbor who cared for their dog while they were here.

Meredith and Gautham's flight was at 1:00.  We dropped them off, then went to a palapa bar near the airport.  We shared grilled shrimp.

Then, we dropped off Alexis for her 5:00 flight.  I'm afraid they are both returning to cold and snowy weather.

Back at the house, George and I loaded up the airstream and truck.  After one final sunset/whale-watching cocktail hour on our upstairs deck, we walked to the nearby Italian restaurant for a pizza.  

January 7, 2016. Last family day in Baja

LOCATION:  Rental house in Todos Santos, Baja California, Mexico

WEATHER:  Beautiful. Highs near 80

Gautham and Meredith went on a whale shark expedition.  They went with a group to La Paz.  They had a great time, swimming with the whale sharks and dolphins.  On his last jump into the water, Gautham caught his hand on a pole and ripped it open.  The tour operator took him to a hospital in La Paz where he got 50+ stitches.  Too bad!

While they were gone, Alexis, George and I relaxed at the house and did  computer work.

We picked up Gautham (in his sling) and Meredith after their trip and went to El Mirador Restaurant for a drink to watch our last sunset together.

There is a beautiful view, from high on the cliff.

Back at the house, we celebrated our last night together with a bottle of Champagne, left from New Year's.

And a family pose!

Some people from the whale-shark trip joined us for dinner.

DINNER:  Asian fish over udon.  I made a sauce with garlic, onion, ginger, sesame oil and soy sauce and spread it over some grilled Mahi-Mahi.