Day 236. March 30, 2014. Headin' east

LOCATION:  SW Texas

WEATHER:  Sunny, quite warm. High around 80

We left the campground near Carlsbad, NM, and drove east about 200 miles.  Carlsbad was the farthest west we will go this year.  We plan to travel to western USA next year.  We are heading toward Abillene, TX, where we have to go to get a new windshield for the car.  A piece of gravel hit the windshield a few weeks ago, and is now creating  a broken line all the way across.  

We drove through miles of oil fields and strip mines.  Not very scenic.  It is so very dry.  Parts of the route reminded us of the Dust Bowl.  Farmers' land was blowing strongly across the highway.  

We are staying at Lake Colorado City State Park.  It is a huge park with lots of facilities for water sports.  However, due to the drought, the lake has shrunk significantly.  There are docks about 50 feet from the water.  Consequently, the park is about empty.  

We have electricity, WIFI, and water.  

DINNER:  I modified a recipe I found in a magazine called Mediterranean Delight.  It called for grapes and apricots, but since I don't like fruit with savory flavors, I just skipped those ingredients. :-). 

I sautéed some chorizo and chicken sausage.  Then added sautéed onions, tomatoes, bell pepper, and jalapeños.  To that, I added cooked rice and chicken broth.  Lots of herbs..basil, oregano, fennel seeds, and sage.  At the end, I stirred in some Greek yogurt for consistency.  George loved it. 

Day 235. March 29, 2014. Living desert

LOCATION:  near Carlsbad, in SE corner of New Mexico

WEATHER:  Sunny. High around 70

We took a long bike ride on a path in the state park.  There are cottontail bunnies and black-eared jack rabbits all over.  

We drove into town.  As in Texas, there are huge cattle ranches all over.  Usually we don't see the cows, but these were right on the road.

Not too shy!

There are also oil fields all over.  The air spells like oil.

In town, we went to a living desert park and zoo.  Very nicely done, showing native plants and animals.

Then, we went to a beautiful hotel that is a restored bank.  In the bar, there was a free wine-tasting. They were surprisingly good New Mexico wines. We had spicy habanero NM goat cheese in a blueberry sauce with NM pecans to accompany the wine.

We did grocery shopping, and now the refrigerator is bulging.  George cooked chicken thighs on the gas grill.  That is allowed, but we cannot use BBQ grills with charcoal or firewood, due to burn ban. Our campsite has a brand-new grill with a sign with warnings.

DINNER:  With some of the grilled chicken, I made fajitas.  Added lots of veggies.  My bueno!

Day 234. March 28, 2014. Carlsbad Cavern

LOCATION:  Near Carlsbad, NM in SE New Mexico

WEATHER:  Sunny; highs in low 70s

We rushed around, packing up from Guadalupe Mountains National Park.  We drove about 40 miles to Carlsbad Caverns National Park.  Neat to be able to go to 2 national parks so close by.  

We did a self-guided tour of the caverns.   First, we walked down a steep, steep ramp.  All I could think about was climbing back up.  We walked down the equivalent of 75 flights of stairs.  About halfway down, I learned that there was an elevator back up.  Thank goodness! The tour was about 2 hours.  It was really beautiful...lots of stalagmites and stalactites. 

We had planned to stay in a motel in Carlsbad to get cleaned up after national park camping.  When I looked at reserving a room, however, I found really high prices and little availability....a Days Inn for $179!  I found out that it is because the hotels are full of oil workers, as there is an oil boom going on here.  So, we found a nice state park nearby.  Seems luxurious....full hook-ups and a nice hot shower. Like Texas, it is dry here, too.  The campground is on a lake, but it is really low.

We drove into a little town called Artesia as some hikers had told us about a brewpub there.  It, too, is an oil town.  There is obviously money here.  Beautiful statues around the square.  This one is an oil derick.  

We went to the brewpub, anticipating some good beer.  Shockingly, the bartender would not serve me as I didn't have any ID with me.  George got mad, so didn't buy anything.  So, we just came back to the campground.

DINNER:  Last night of leftovers, to clean out refrigerator before grocery shopping tomorrow.  I baked a potato and served the leftover clam chowder on top as a sauce.  

We even have TV here, so happily watched PBS. 

Day 233. March 27, 2014 . More hiking!

LOCATION:  Guadalupe Mountains National Park, in SW Texas

WEATHER:  Sunny, highs in  60s.  Gusty winds

We decided to stay one more day in the park, partly because we wanted to explore another part of the park, and partly because there was a wind advisory warning tall vehicles (like RVs) against driving in the high winds.

We hiked in a canyon, thinking it would be less windy there.  Not.  This was our longest hike yet....6 hours.  This time, though, we took it easy, stopping for a picnic lunch and to chat with other hikers.  Today I wore a hat, as the sun is bleaching my hair, and my face is sunburned and wind-burned.  I look kind of funny

  DINNER:  nothing special.  Leftovers, since we will be moving tomorrow

Day 232. March 26, 2014. More mountain climbing

LOCATION:  Guadalupe Mountains National Park in far west Texas, on New Mexico border

WEATHER:  Sunny, super windy. High in. 60s

We are camping several days here.  Like most national parks, it is not very developed.  We don't have electricity or water.  There is, thankfully, a decent bathroom and a dishwashing area.  

George was resourceful and found an electric outlet, next to the broken Coke machine and defunct pay phone.  We heated water in our electric tea kettle for coffee.  

We went on another 4-hour mountain hike.  I think we are trying to kill ourselves.  We were at 6000 feet at one point.  Then, on our way down, the winds picked up and we had to walk into the gusts.  Since it had rained a little during the night, some of the desert flowers were in bloom.

A wind advisory was announced, with potential 100 mph gusts tonight, so many of the other campers left....especially the tenters.

DINNER:  Rather strange.  It was supposed to be a belated St. Patrick's Day meal, but everything turned out pink!  When I bought the cabbage last week, the store only had red cabbage.   Then, I added some red spice from the bottom of a Mexican snack bag to the mashed potatoes, so they were pink.  Then, to my disappointment, the can of corned beef ( an off-brand which was the only option), turned out to be more like pinkish SPAM.    It all tasted ok, but not what I had planned.

To reply to Keith's suggestion of going to a restaurant, that is really not an option, as the nearest restaurant is 50 miles away, one -way.

Since we don't have electricity, we went to bed when it got dark...about 8:00!

Day 231. March 25, 2014. Up we go!

LOCATION: Guadalupe Mountains National Park, TX.  On the New Mexico border, near El Paso, Tx

WEATHER:  Cool and windy; high around 60

We packed up at Marfa and headed northwest through gigantic cattle ranches.  On the way, we stopped at Chuy's Mexican Restaurant, one of a small chain in Texas.  We ate here because someone had suggested it.  It is the "John Madden Haul of Fame".  He "hauled" trophies, pendants, etc to decorate the place.  Apparently, once his caravan was driving along I-10, and they stopped here for lunch.  He raved about it in the press, so now it is supposedly famous.  Of course, we ate the John Madden Special.

We drove 150 miles to this national park.  It has the highest mountains in Texas....8500 feet.  The car struggled a bit climbing in the mountains.  We are trying to hit as many national parks as we can. 

The campground isn't much....essentially a parking lot with about 25 RV spaces, but the view is magnificent!  

We took a 3-hour hike on a trail described as "moderate".  Haha!  It was really tough.  Most of it was in a dry riverbed with boulders we had to climb.  I was so afraid that one of us would twist an ankle or something.  The sun was beginning to set, and I had visions of sleeping outdoors with the mountain lions we are warned about. We were the only ones on the trail.   Thankfully, we made it back safely.

DINNER:  Some clam chowder, the last of cans I bought in a restaurant in Cedar Key, Florida.  Really hit the spot on this cool, now drizzling, evening.

Day 230. March 24, 2014. Dry and dusty

LOCATION: Another day in Marfa, Texas, in far SW Texas

WEATHER:  Warm and sunny, high around 65

We decided to stay one more day in Marfa.  Our campground is on the eastern outskirts of town.  We walked into town for lunch, but being Monday, almost everything was closed.  Someone told us there is a "greasy Mexican" restaurant on the far western side of town.  So, we had quite a hike there.  It turned out to be good food, and super busy, including about 15 Border Patrol guys.  We split their lunch special @ $6, which was more than we could eat.

Yesterday I posted a picture of one of the food trucks here

It turns out that the owner lives in an old Air Stream our campground.  (Note car says Food Shark)

Our campground has a shed that is a kitchen/laundry/eating/sitting area.  We hung out there in the PM.  Everything is covered with dust.  On the positive side, clothes and dishes dry in a flash.  On a negative note, our skin is drying out almost equally fast.

DINNER: Since it is so dry, most of West Texas has a burn ban in place.  Since we cannot make a campfire, I'm cooking everything inside.  I'm trying to keep the Air Stream "fresh" by not cooking meat or chicken inside.  So, I invented something again tonight.  I sautéed onions, leftover zucchini, garlic, mushrooms and a few slices of turkey lunch meat.  I added cream and Parmesan to make a cream sauce and served it with delicious Pappardella pasta I still have from the San Antonio shopping trip.  At the end, I sprinkled some black truffle oil on top....how gourmet!  Someone had left a bottle of it in the kitchen area, and I thought I'd try it.

Day 229. March 23, 2014. Our anniversary!

LOCATION:  Another day in Marfa, in SW Texas, 50 miles north of Mexico

WEATHER:  Much cooler.  High about 50.  Super windy

George was doing some computer work, and a reminder popped up that it is our anniversary.  We had both totally forgotten!

Trains go through here all the time, very near our campground.  You can see some tumbleweeds

We toured more of the art installations in town.  An artist/architect bought an old army base outside of town, and built these artistic blocks around the grounds.  The former barracks are now homes for artists in residence.

These are some of the food options in town...

Or these Aiir Streams that are now food trucks and shops

For our anniversary dinner, we went out for pizza.  The restaurant is in an old gas station, with the other half an art gallery.  We had a white pizza with spinach, jalapeño, ricotta and mozzarella.  The clientele was interesting to watch...a big Mexican family get-together with 3 or 4 generations, some wealthy looking ranchers, some funky looking artists, and of course us tourists.

Back at the campground, here is the registration office.

Day 228. March 22, 2014. Quirky Marfa

LOCATION:  Marfa, TX, In far SW a Texas.  About 50 miles north of Mexico

WEATHER: Nice, high about 70

We spent all AM working with Apple on computer stuff. Very stressful.  Then, we went into town and had lunch (rice and beans) at Planet Marfa. We walked around town to visit some of the many art installations.  You open a door of a building that seems decrepit, or part of something else, and encounter this wonderful art.  We saw this special exhibit.

The downtown square is nice.

This is the famous El Paisano Hotel, where the cast of Giant stayed.  It has been nicely refurbished.

We had a beer at Padres.  All the bars have live music.  The problem is that they don't start playing until 10:00 or so, past our bedtime.

  We are in the land of Air Streams.  In our campground, there are 4 out of 8 campers, including a vintage 1961 one.  In the town, there are several that appear to be permanent homes.  There is also a collection of old ones that form a group of shops and restaurants.  

Marfa is a neat combination of cowboys and artists.  There is a short video on Marfa on 60 Minutes to give you a flavor of the town.

DINNER:   Eating from the back-up food box....  I sautéed some black  pepper-flavored SPAM with garlic, mushrooms and green onions.  I served it with orzo to which I added a bit of cream cheese for texture.  I know many people don't like SPAM, but we do, and it is great for camping.  

Day 227. March 21, 2014. GIANT country

LOCATION:  Marfa, Texas.  Far SW Texas, about 50 miles north of Mexico

WEATHER:  Nice and sunny. High around 70

We visited a desert research institute.  They have a cactus greenhouse with about 1000 different varieties.  Amazing

Then, we loaded up and left Alpine for Marfa, only about 30 miles.  Marfa is an artsy town.  Some benefactor has converted abandoned buildings around town to art galleries.  Its biggest claim to fame is that the 1955 film called Giant, starring Rock Hudson, Elizabeth Taylor, James Dean and Dennis Hopper was filmed here.  We visited the beautifully restored hotel where they stayed.

Our campground is near the town.  This pic showed how dusty and dry everything looks.

We walked around the town and found  a cute place to have a drink....Planet Marfa.

At the visitors' center, they let us borrow the Giant DVD.  We watched it after dinner.

Marfa is famous for its eery lights.  Every night about sunset, colored lights appear, that no one can explain.  Here is our campground showing neat sky.

DINNER:  Improvising, as there aren't grocery stores nearby.....it turned out surprisingly well.  I warmed up the leftover mashed potatoes, added sautéed garlic, onion and zucchini.  To that, I added a can of chicken, and seasoned with capers.  

Day 226. March 20, 2014. Housework!

LOCATION:  Alpine, TX....about 100 miles north of Big Bend

WEATHER:  Cold at night (need heat).  Sunny, 75 during day

This is a "work" day.  I did a ton of laundry, including all the sheets and blankets.  We replaced the carpet.  We really track in a lot of dirt.  Here I am, scrubbing the floor.

We also did grocery shopping.  I stocked up on back-up food, like tuna, SPAM, beans as we will be without a grocery store next week.  We picked up George's bike which was repaired at a local bike shop.  

Then, we "played".....visited a local museum, then went to Harry's Tinaka Bar.  A Tinaka is an Indian stone vessel for catching water.  Harry turned out to be a German!

 Saw way too many tattoos and piercings.  

Then we went back to the Saddle Club for dinner.  Great food.  We had cold cucumber gazpacho and a delicious steak hoagie

This campground, like many, has a library.  People drop off books, CDs, and DVDs, and pick up others.  I loaded up to prepare for the road.  We will be heading west again.

Day 225. March 19, 2014. Big Bend Brewery

LOCATION:   80 miles north of Big Bend National Park

WEATHER: Hazy.  Much cooler, especially as we climbed from desert to 4600 feet. High around 60

We packed up from Terlingua and drove north back to Alpine, Texas, retuning to a very nice campground where we stayed before Big Bend.  

We toured small Big Bend Brewery here in Alpine. All beers were very good.  Then we went to a bar in town that sells their beers.

George had their porter ....for $2.25.  There were lots of local characters.  We talked to these two cowboys

DINNER:  I had one hamburger patty left, so I split it and made cheeseburgers.  I also made some surprisingly good instant mashed potatoes with a bit of queso fresco.  Served with creamed corn.  

Day 224. March 18, 2014. Dusty and rough country

LOCATION:  Terlingua, TX.  Outside of Big Bend National Park

WEATHER:  Hot around 85 during the day

We took a drive west along the Rio Grande.  It was a wild, roller-coaster road.  Unfortunately, the Rio Grande isn't very "grande" anymore.  We read that 95% of the river gets diverted upstream to cities and farms

The river hardly has enough water for recreation, but we did see some people canoeing

We stopped for a picnic lunch under a teepee shelter

In the evening, we went to "the porch".  It is where locals hang out, drinking beer from the general store, and listening to musicians

Then, we had dinner at the Starlight Theatre next door with good food and live music.  We had an Axis burger, a different kind of deer found in Texas.

NOTE.... I have now added photos to Day 222, from Mexico

Day 223. March 17, 2014. Crazy St. Patrick's Day!

LOCATION:  Terlingua, TX, about 25 miles outside of Big Bend State Park

WEATHER:  Typical desert weather...hot around 80 in the PM.  Cool in AM and evening

We packed up from Big Bend and stopped at Terlingua Ghost Town. We met our friends for lunch on their way north. Terlingua (population 250) has an annual chili cook-off which brings 10,000 people to town.  So, of course we had to try the chili.  

Terlingua was a mining town, and now is called a ghost town, as the mining industry ended.  However, artists and old hippies have come in, and now occupy the shacks.  A lot of interesting/strange people!  Here is the cemetery.

After lunch, George talked to some guys at another table, and greeted them with "Happy St. Patrick's Day!"  They then told us that they were going to be in a parade later in the day, and invited us to join them.  They are retired military so super patriotic.  There was one float, with the Statue of Liberty, and some trucks and motorcycles with locals dressed in green.

After the parade, all the locals went to this bar, aptly called Passing Wind.  It is actually a private residence, but the ex-military guys beckoned us in.  We choked down some really bad beer (Bud). 

The place is decorated with a submarine and sailboat.

I'm sure they were going to party all night.  

We went back to our campground.  It is a nice, commercial one, although there is no shade.  Our neighbors are full-time RVers and have been traveling for 13 years!  

DINNER:  Some home-canned steel head salmon that a camper from Idaho had given us, from a river near their home.  Served with rice and green beans.  

The campground hosts made a nice campfire and we joined folks to chat awhile.  We even were able to buy some Jameson Irish whiskey so we could toast St. Patrick! 

Day 222. March 16, 2014. Rowboat to Mexico!

LOCATION:  Another day at Big Bend National Park, in SW Texas

WEATHER:  Cooler, high about 60. Sunny

We took a nature walk in the AM with the park ranger.  The focus was the diversity of the landscape here in the park....river, desert, mountains.

Then we and our camper friends from San Francisco went to the official crossing to Mexico.  First, the rangers told us the process and rules.  Then we walked down the path to the river.  The Mexicans on the other side, about 25 yards away, then starting singing.  One jumped in his rowboat and picked us up ($5 per person round trip).  

He  rowed us over and we were met by a group of men, asking our travel preference into town......horseback, donkey or pickup truck.  

We decided just to walk.  Then, they assigned us a guide.  He took us to Mexican immigration where lots of forms were processed.  Then, he took us to one of the 2 restaurants in town.  

We chose the non-touristy one.  We shared a platter of tamales, and had a Carta Blanca.  The señora cooking brought us some complimentary tostados  with refried  beans.  

We walked around the town with our guide The town is really poor.  No running water.  Some houses have a bit of solar electricity, if it is a sunny day.  Most cook with mesquite. After walking around, we went to their bar.  George tried a home-made drink called sotol, kind of like tequila.  

Then, we had to go back to Mexican immigration for more paperwork.

  There are about 50 families living there.  The nearest town is 5 hours away.  The people ride horses around.  The only industry is tourism.  After 9-11, the USA closed this border crossing, so the town almost just died.  The only income was when Mexicans sneaked across the border and left their trinkets and crafts on Oark trails,  and a jar for Americans to leave money for the purchase.  Some people still do this.  However, if the rangers see these trinkets, they confiscate everything.  Also, sometimes the Mexican horses and cows wander across the river.  The US officials take the animals away and sell them.  I feel so sorry for these poor people.   The border reopened in April, 2013 along with a $3.5 million US border station....to process a very small number of people who cross. What terrible bureaucracy!  Some of the people returned. 

We walked back to the boat, with children following us, trying to sell trinkets.  Then we were rowed back, and went through US immigration and customs.  It was an interesting trip.

We drove up to the highest peak in the park, and took a hike up the mountain.  Beautiful views!  It was a lot colder and windier there.

DINNER:  Omelette with potatoes, cheese, onion, garlic, and leftover stuffing from the portabello dinner a few days ago.  On the side, we had tomatoes and tomatillos drizzled with olive oil and lemon juice.

Day 221. March 15, 2014. Wading in the Rio Grande

LOCATION:  to Big Bend National Park.  Along the Rio Grande in far SW Texas

WEATHER:  Sunny. High about 75

We got up early in order to get to Big Bend.  We drove about 150 miles, but it was slow going.  When we got to the campgrounds, our friends whom we had met a few days ago had kindly reserved us a site.  There were only about 5 available.  

We drove across the mountains in Big Bend to get to our campground.  Really rugged scenery.  

In the PM, we went with our friends to a nearby hot springs.  It is on the Rio Grande.  We jokingly said that this looks like George is climbing back to the USA. Our friend Daniel  is in the background, along the Mexican side.

We walked to another part of the river.  Here are George and Daniel walking back from Mexico on the right. 

DINNER:  We grilled hamburgers over the campfire and enjoyed the nice evening outdoors with our friends.  

The ranger came by to warn us of 50 mph winds tonight.