October 30, 2014. Northeast Alabama foothills

CAMPGROUND:  Desoto State Park.  Paved sites.  Wooded mountain area.  Beautiful bathrooms with showers and dishwashing sink, but far away. Decent grill.  4 stars out of 5.  $27 with senior discount

LOCATION:  Near Mentone, Alabama in far NE corner of state.  About 50 miles south of Chattanooga, Tennessee

WEATHER:  Sunny. Highs in 60s

We drove on backroads through little towns.  We are definitely getting into some foothills.  We are getting back into some fall colors, too.

We had a scary moment..... We were driving along a divided highway with a 60 mph speed limit.  We came over a hill and almost plowed into a car just sitting in the highway.  We then realized that there was a funeral procession going in the opposite direction,  and this driver stopped, too.  No blinking lights, no police.  Apparently this is a Southern custom. We had to swerve and brake.  Thank goodness George was driving, and not me!

On to more scary driving.....my Google map sent us on a bad backroad to the park.  It was very narrow, with steep drop-offs and hairpin curves.  It was especially bad when we met approaching cars.   We finally found the park.  The clerk was surprised that we made it on that road, and gave us directions for leaving.  We had planned to stay 2 nights, but they are full for tomorrow.  

DINNER:  We experimented with a pizza over the fire in our cast iron skillet.  I bought pre-made pizza dough.  We lined the skillet and let that cook for awhile.  We had to put the skillet directly on the coals to get it hot enough.  Finally the crust cooked a bit and we added the toppings.....onions, garlic, sauce, cheese and diced salami (which I'm trying to use up).  It turned out pretty well, although some of the crust burned on the bottom.  Was fun to try. 

October 29, 2014. Natchez Trail completed

CAMPGROUND:    Blankhead National Forest on Smith Lake.  5 stars out of 5.  Beautiful sites on lake.  Really clean bathrooms and showers. Each site with full hook-ups. $17 per night with a Senior pass. 

LOCATION:  Rural north central Alabama, about 100 miles from Birmingham. 

WEATHER:  Sunny, nice. Highs in 60s

We drove a few more miles north on the Natchez Trace, then turned east toward Alabama.  We took backroads through small towns.  We bought some boiled peanuts and sweet potatoes at a road side stand.  When we saw a sign for a national forest, we pulled in, for a picnic lunch. It was so nice that we decided to stay overnight.   

This is our route since Illinois.....south through Land Between the Lakes, Nashville, then down and back up the Natchez Trace.  

The campground is covered with gigantic leaves.  The host told us that they are from a wild magnolia tree, that is found only in this small part of the country.  They showed us pictures of their blossoms from the spring, that are bigger than the fronds.

George decided they would make good placemats!

The sites have unique sewer connectors contained in stainless steel bins.

DINNER: I am trying to use up food in the refrigerator before our trip to India.  So, I made a curry with some curry paste that needed to be used, with the sweet potatoes we bought today as well as broccoli and onions.  

October 28, 2014. Day 8 on Natchez Trace, heading back north

CAMPGROUND:  Davis Lake Campground, part of the Tombigbee National Park.  Sites right on the lake.  Electricity and water hook-ups.  Great bathrooms with private shower rooms.  Fire pit and stand-up grills.  Definitely 5 stars out of 5.  $13 with senior pass.  

LOCATION:  Just off the Trace, about 15 miles south of Tupelo, Mississippi, in NE part of state

WEATHER:  Sunny and nice. Highs in upper 70s

We left Natchez State Park and headed north.  This old abandoned store is next to the park.

There must have been a town there at one point.  There is an old shack with a sharecropper's current home in the back.

We drove all day on the Natchez Trace Parkway, "retracing" our steps going back north. We stopped for a picnic at a wayside park.  Note the split rail fence that is all along the Parkway.

 It was an easy drive again, seeing a few RVs, bicyclists, and even  a roller blader going down the middle of the highway!

We drove about 250 miles to this park.  As we pulled in, the camp host greeted us in his kayak!  We watched beautiful blue herons catching fish next to our site.

DINNER:  Pasta salad.....penne pasta, spicy mayonnaise, salami, cheese, oil and vinegar, and Giardiniera mix.  I found the recipe in a magazine.  Easy and tasty.  

October 27, 2014. Day 7 on Natchez Trace. Antebellum Natchez

CAMPGROUND:  Second night at Natchez State Park

LOCATION: Outside the city of Natchez, in SW Mississippi

WEATHER:  Hot and muggy. Highs in lower 80s

We wanted to take a hike in the park, so we had to plan around  these signs...

The ranger said the nature trail was safe, except for ticks.  It quickly turned into a jungle, with spider webs with huge spiders in them, hanging directly in our path.  We got covered with webs, spiders and thorns.  Good work-out!

We drove into the city of Natchez.  It is full of well-preserved mansions from the 1800s.  We learned that before the Civil War, Natchez had more millionaires per capita than any other city.  

We had lunch at a Natchez icon, Fat Momma's Hot Tomales.  We split their famous Gringo Pie, and I had their "Knock-You-Naked" margarita.  George had a porter from a Mississippi brewery. 

We spent some time at the visitors center.  It overlooks the Mississippi River.  This bridge crosses over to Louisiana.  The valleys are full of kudzu, the ubiquitous Southern plant that might take over all the land.  It grows a foot per day.

 

We went to a pub that features craft beers from the South.  It is appropriately called (for us) The Camp.  It is in a part of Natchez called Natchez Under The Hill.  This is where the river men arrived with their goods to sell.  It was the raunchy part of town, as compared to the genteel mansions above, on the hill.  The pub is a former whore house,famous for its shootings.

We drove by another famous Southern-style restaurant called Mammy's. It is politically incorrect, with a black Mammy-shaped building which you enter through her hoop skirts.  

We saw muffalettas advertised in a small grocery store, so bought one for dinner.  

DINNER:  We warmed the muffaletta slices in the George Forman.  It was pretty good, but not as good as the ones in New Orleans.  

October 26, 2014. Day 6 on Natchez Trace. To the south terminus

CAMPGROUND:  Natchez State Park.  Nice cement slab sites.  New bathhouse with showers, flush toilets, and laundry.  Electricity and water at each site.   Dump station. Brand new grill and firepit. On a lake, but no views.  $14 with senior discount. 4 stars out of 5.

LOCATION:  Natchez, in southwest Mississippi

WEATHER:  Hot and sunny.  High 83!

We took a morning hike at Jeff Busby park, up a small mountain in the park.  It is Mississippi's highest point.

Jeff Busby was a politician who made the Trace into a national park byway.

The climb was a bit difficult, and we got hot.  What a physique this hiker has!

Then we packed up and drove 190 miles to the southern end of the Trace.  We stopped in Jackson (home of the movie/book "The Help") for gas.  We are outside the city of Natchez, the southern end of the Trace, which we will visit tomorrow.

DINNER:  I sautéed the Gulf shrimp we bought the other day from the seafood truck.  I added lots of garlic and onion and served over the leftover clam linguine.  Had a salad on the side.  Really good! I made broth from the shrimp shells and will use that for grits tomorrow morning.  

October 25, 2014. Day 5 on Natchez Trace. Shopping troubles in Tupelo

CAMPGROUND:  Jeff Busby Campground, part of Natchez Parkway.  It is One of three free campgrounds along the Trace, run by the National Park Service.  Basics only...clean bathrooms with flush toilets.  No electricity or dump station.  Pump to fill up water tanks.  Woodsy.  About 25 sites.  4 stars out of 5. Camp host is interesting New Zealander.  Our neighbors are from Quebec.  We've heard that these campgrounds are popular among the Snowbirds, especially Canadians, when they make their fall treks southward, and spring treks northward.

LOCATION:  About 75 miles south of Tupelo, in central Mississippi

WEATHER:  Sunny and warmer. High about 80

The Natchez Trace is a beautiful, natural byway, with no commercial business at all.....no trucks are allowed; speed limit is 40-50mph; no businesses, no towns, no billboards.  Just placid scenery.  It is leisurely driving.  We have to get off the Trace to buy gas and groceries.

We got off in Tupelo.  Nothing went as planned.  We planned to have lunch at a brewpub.  Its website said it was open for lunch, but when we got there, it said it would open at 2:00.  Then we drove on into the city, and managed to get into the not-so-nice part, searching for a grocery.  At one point, I thought I'd have to give up my principles and go to WalMart, but we finally found a store.  We also found a guy selling Gulf shrimp and fish along the road and bought both.  We got back on the Trace, and had a picnic lunch at one if the many turn-outs.

Our total driving time today was about 100 miles.  We are at the 200-mile halfway point on the Trace.  We looked at the map to plan our route and schedule after we reach the Trace terminus, in Natchez.

We got settled in and talked with our garrulous host a bit.  George made a fire in the stand-up grill.

DINNER:  Grilled redfish.  Side was rice with roasted broccoli with pumpkin seeds.  Quite nice!

October 24, 2014. Day 4 on Natchez Trace. Cleaning day

CAMPGROUND:  2nd night at Piney Grove

LOCATION:  In the middle of nowhere, about 50 miles north of Tupelo, in northern Mississippi

WEATHER:  Very nice. Sunny. Highs about 70

We hiked and took a bike ride that ended up being more strenuous than we thought.  George spent the afternoon cleaning the Airstream.

Our site is big, with a separate cooking/eating area, overlooking the lake.

Then, he got serious, using gasoline to rub off the tar and grease from the camper.

After all that work, and being around the gasoline, he had to have a cigarette!

Just kidding!

It really looked shiny when he was finished.

We watched the sun set over the lake and made a fire.

DINNER:  I had to rely on my back-up food box.  We cooked the turnips (that George had picked) in the campfire and mashed thm up with the leftover sweet potato.  For entree, I sautéed SPAM with a can of hash.  Hopefully we will get to a grocery store tomorrow.

October 23, 2014. Day 3 on Natchez Trace, in the Deep South

CAMPGROUND:  Piney Grove Campground. Part of the Army Corps of Engineers.  On a man-made lake.  Large, woodsy sites. Laundry. Clean, nice bathrooms with showers.  Dish-washing sink with hot water (although sexistly located in women's bathroom).  Campfire ring plus stand-up grill.  Electricity and water at each site.  Cell service.  PBS reception on TV.  We have the loop to ourselves.  Definitely 5 stars out of 5. All for $11/night.....we splurged and spent an extra dollar to get a site right on the lake.  :-)

LOCATION:  About 50 miles north of Tupelo, in northern Mississippi.  On backroads, with no nearby towns.  

WEATHER:  Sunny. Highs in 60s

We leisurely drove about 100 miles south on the Natchez Trace, stopping to look at historical sites along the way.  There isn't too much traffic.  We took a few short hikes and had a sardine/cracker picnic at one stop. 

One stop was Meriwether Lewis's home and grave (Lewis as in explorers Lewis and Clark fame)

Another stop was Davey Crockett Park.

The road cut through about 30 miles of a corner of Alabama, then we were in Mississippi.  We had to take a detour through some back roads.  We came along a cotton field....looks like snow!

George saw a sign saying "free turnips" so picked some for dinner.

We had a hard time finding this campground, as its location was not clear on the map.  We stopped at a flea market for help.  We ended up going down the wrong road.  It was unpaved with untidy trailers and mangy dogs chasing us.  We finally found someone to ask.  George talked with the woman.  He said I wouldn't have understood her at all...strong Southern drawl.   We were able to turn around and then found the campground.  We will stay here for 2 nights.

DINNER:  Stir-fried rice with leftover chicken.  George wanted boiled turnip greens.  Since they have a strong smell, I made him cook them outside.  He really liked them, served with vinegar.  We will eat the turnips tomorrow.  

October 22, 2014. Day 2 on Natchez Trace

CAMPGROUND:  2nd night at Fox Hollow.  We Fiund the owner and paid.  Very friendly couple that run the place.  They have a "Bed and Biscuit" motel connected to the RV park with 2 rooms. 

LOCATION:  75 miles south of Nashville, in north central Tennessee

WEATHER:  Really cool in the evening/nights. Sunny. Highs in 60s

We spent the morning doing laundry and washing the car, in Hohenwald, the closest town to the campground.  Then we drove a few miles back North on the Trace to do some hiking and sight-seeing.  We stopped at an old tobacco farm and field.  

After the leaves are dried, they are hung in a barn to dry.  Then, they close the doors and smoke the leaves.

From there, we went to a fiberglass camper factory in town that the RV park owner told us about.  The campers are like a high-end Casita or Scamp.  The salesman showed us the various stages of construction.  They are called Oliver campers.  They have a lot of very nice features.  

Somehow, our 2-year old dusty Airstream didn't seem so nice when we got  back to the campground, so we went into a cleaning frenzy.

DINNER:  George made a cheesy steamed cauliflower dish.  I made BBQ chicken sandwiches with the chicken left over from the Loveless Cafe.   

October 21, 2014. Day 1 on Natchez Trace

CAMPGROUND:  Fox Hollow RV Park. Grassy but sloped sites. New private bathroom/showers, but far away. Electricity and water. Dump station. 3 out of 5 stars. Not sure of cost...owner wasn't around when we arrived.  Another camper said $22. 

LOCATION:  75 miles south of Nashville, Tennessee

WEATHER:  Sunny and warm. Highs in 60s

We bought gas in Nashville, cheapest gas yet at $2.65/gallon.   This is about half of what we paid this summer in Alaska and Canada.  

We drove through Nashville. I get so nervous pulling the camper through big cities.  Our first stop was outside of Nashville at a famous restaurant, The Loveless Cafe.  It is known for its Southern home cooking.  They say they make 7000 biscuits daily.  There are pictures of famous movie stars and musicians that have eaten here.  We saw huge platters of fried chicken, Southern country ham, and piles of biscuits being served.  Meals start with a complimentary plate of biscuits and home-made preserves that are constantly being replenished. 

People sometimes wait for hours.  We were there for a late lunch, so only waited a short time.  We split the daily special, BBQ chicken.  It came with a choice of 2 sides. We chose fried okra and hashbrown casserole.  

I

Notice the wine served in a moonshine glass.  Even though we split this, we got a doggie bag for the leftovers.  

From there, we drove 70 miles south on the Natchez Trace.  It is a beautiful roadway that is part of the National Park Service.  The speed limit is 40, and there are lots of historical stops along the way.  It is 440 miles long, ending in Natchez, Mississippi.  We spotted deer and wild turkey along the road.

A history lesson....In the early 1800s, people took their goods to New Orleans from the Nashville area by boat on the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers.  They sold their goods and boats, then hiked back north on this trail (Trace).  It was made into a highway in the early 1900s.  

We are going to slowly meander down the Trace for the next 10 days or so.  

DINNER:  Linguine with tomatoes, spinach and clams.  Easy and delicious.  I used a can of clams and a can of tomatoes to make it easy.  Lots of garlic and Parmesan. 

October 20, 2014. Crazy Nashville

CAMPGROUND:  2nd night, Seven Points

LOCATION:  Outside of Nashville in north central Tennessee

WEATHER:  Partly cloudy. Highs in 60s

We went sight-seeing in downtown Nashville.  It seems very prosperous, with lots of new construction.  We walked around the area with the honky-tonk bars.  Every bar has its windows and doors open, with a country western singer twanging away, trying to become famous.  I'm sure it really gets raucous at night.  

 

In between bars are lots of shops to buy cowboy boots and hats.

There is a  convention center and lots of hotels, so very popular for tourists.  There is a Johnny Cash museum, and the huge Country Music Hall of Fame that covers more than a city block.    I got into the tourist mode with the King.....

We had lunch in a brewpub...delicious grilled tuna sandwich.  

Then, we drove about 30 miles to Franklin, featured in my guidebook "1000 Places To Go Before You Die".  It is a very "genteel" town with a popular downtown with high-end shops and restaurants.  We took a self-guided walking tour around one neighborhood to see the 1860 era mansions and cottages.  This one is decked out for Halloween...

Back at the campground, George made a fire and I prepared dinner.

DINNER:  Curry with cauliflower,  onions, and sweet potatoes.  Served over rice.  Enjoyed, appropriately, with an India Pale Ale.  

October 19, 2014. Traveling through Tennessee

CAMPGROUND:  Seven Points.  It is an Army Corps of Engineers park.  We have heard that they are nice, and they are.  5 stars out of 5.  Nice, woodsy sites.  Lots of privacy. On man-made lake with beautiful views. Good bathroom and showers.  Water and electricity hook-ups at each site.  $10 with George's senior pass.

LOCATION:  Right outside Nashville, Tennessee in suburb called Hermitage, named after Andrew Jackson's home here

WEATHER:  Nice fall day. Highs in 60s

We packed up from Land Between the Lakes.  I had to hide my eyes when George pulled the camper from our site.  We were really on a sharp decline toward the lake.  I was afraid he would slide into the water!  He did superbly, of course.

We stopped in Clarksville for lunch at a brewpub.  I had a black IPA; George had a porter. Both were good.  We split a delicious flatbread pizza.

Our destination was Nashville where we will stay a few days before starting the Natchez Trace trip.  We got settled into the new site and George built a nice fire.

DINNER: We baked potatoes by wrapping them in aluminum foil and throwing them on the fire.  I made a sauce with the leftover BBQ brisket, onions, garlic, chicken broth, and BBQ sauce.  Pretty good for leftovers!

October 18, 2014. Nice fall Saturday in Tennessee

CAMPGROUND: 3rd night at Piney Campground

LOCATION:  Land Between the Lakes on Tennessee/Kentucky border

WEATHER:  Cooler.  Mostly sunny. Highs in 60s

We awoke to a very pretty sunrise on the lake.

The sun was shining on the camper.

Today was slow-paced.  We biked on the trails around the campground, and enjoyed looking at other campers.  Almost everyone is outside, sitting around campfires.  Some campers have decorated for fall, with mums, pumpkins, and Halloween decor.  

In the afternoon, we drove to Murray, Kentucky, the largest city nearby.  We bought gas at $2.79/gallon.  The cheapest we have seen on this trip!

We went to a bar/cafe there to use internet.  Someone told us they serve good craft beers (not so much).  We couldn't believe it when we entered.....people were smoking!  The bar was filled with smoke.  We didn't think smoking was allowed in any bars anywhere, but guess not.  We escaped to the patio to breathe.

DINNER:  Stir-fried noodles.  I sautéed onions, scallions, garlic, and leftover grilled chicken in sesame oil.  I boiled up rice noodles, then added them to the chicken mix. Seasoned with ginger and soy sauce.  Good!

We enjoyed our Saturday tradition.....listened to Prairie Home Companion on NPR, and British comedies on PBS. 

October 17, 2014. Pontoon ride on Lake Kentucky

CAMPGROUND: Second night at Piney Campground 

LOCATION: Land Between the Lakes, on Western Kentucky / Tennessee border

WEATHER:  Fabulous! Sunny. High around 75

It is so nce here that we decided to stay an extra night if our site is available.  We biked to the office, and were able to make the arrangements.  This means that we will be moving to a new campground on Sunday rather than Saturday, which will be much easier.  We found out that this week is a school fall break, so there are lots of families camping; on Sunday everyone will be going back home.

The weather forecast was superb for the day, so we decided to find a pontoon to rent.  The campground folks referred  us to a marina on the other side of the lake.  We called.  Yes!  They have a boat available, and (hurrah!), it isn't too expensive.

We found the marina and had lunch in their cafe.  George ordered their special....frog legs.  It was huge:  3 sets of fried frog legs, 2 big hush puppies, bowl of white beans, bowl of cole slaw, onion rings and broasted potatoes.  

The potatoes were delivered after the photo...served right from the broaster.  George asked for a beer to complement this feast,  but no......this is a dry county.  Welcome to the South!

We had a brief lesson about driving the pontoon, then off we went.

It was a perfect day to be on the water.  We went up and down the lake, and in to small coves for about 4 hours.  I enjoy looking at the lake-front mansions.

We made it back safe and sound.  Not much boat traffic. Just a few. Fishermen and a few yachts. 

Back at the campground, George made a fire for ambiance.  I deboned the leftover chicken thighs we had grilled last night.  I made broth, froze some meat, and refrigerated other meat for an upcoming dinner.  All while watching the sun set over the lake.

DINNER:  Panzanella, an Italian bread salad.  Quite easy and tasty:  Combine toasted French bread cubes, chopped tomatoes, torn basil leaves, diced red onion, olive oil, red wine vinegar, capers, salt and pepper.  It is a summer dish, and we were celebrating what might be the last summer-like evening we will have for awhile.   

October 16, 2014. Sunshine in Land Between the Lakes

CAMPGROUND:  Piney Campground at Land of the Lakes National Recreation Area. Beautiful lake-side sites.  Decent grills. Nice bathroom and showers. Water for tank. Electric sites are $16 with senior pass.  5 stars out of 5. 

LOCATION:  Land Between the Lakes in northwest corner of Tennesssee.  Along the Tennessee River, on Lake Kentucky.  About 80 miles northwest of Nashville, TN.

WEATHER:  Partly sunny. Highs in 60s

It was a quiet night with no rain pitter-pattering on our roof for a change.  We left Shawnee National Forest in southern Illinois and drove about 30 miles to Paducah, Kentucky.  Then on a few miles to drive the 49-mile Woodlands Scenic National Highway that bisects this area called Land Between the Lakes.  We learned that this is the largest inland peninsula in the USA and is between the Tennessee River and Cumberland River.  Over 300 miles of shoreline.  Part of this national recreation area is in Kentucky; part in Tennessee. 

The sun came out on our drive.  Hallelujah!  

We stopped at Piney Campground.  It is in the southern part of the Land Between the Lakes, in Tennessee,  It is very nice with local weekenders starting to fill it up.  We got a great site right on the lake.  I was a bit concerned that we are perhaps TOO close?  I put some big rocks behind the wheels, so we wouldn't slide into the lake!

I quickly hung up our wet things to dry.  The last week of rain has made us appreciate this sunshine even more.

We walked around the campground and watched the sunset from the beach. 

DINNER:  George was finally able to make a fire, so we grilled chicken.  I made mashed potatoes and peas with the last of the mint.  Super!

October 15, 2014. Hiking adventures!

CAMPGROUND:  Another night at Lake Glendale in Shawnee National Forest

LOCATION:  Southeastern Illinois, near Indiana and Kentucky

WEATHER:  Rain again!  All day long.  Highs in 50s

It continued raining, all through the night.  We awoke to what was supposed to be 50% chance of rain,  but turned out to be 100%.   

Not to be outdone, we donned our rain gear and hiked around the lake where we are camping.  Easy, level 2-hour trek.  We saw lots of interesting mushrooms.  The leaves on the paths are red, orange,  and yellow.  So pretty!

After lunch, we drove to nearby Bell Smith Springs which is supposed to be one of the most beautiful parts of the Shawnee Forest.  There were 3 hikes from which to chose.  We went with what we thought would be the easiest and fastest.  We were undaunted by the trail's description of "moderate to difficult".  (We would soon learn our mistake). There are 3 trails together; ours was marked by a yellow arrow.  

We climbed down a tunnel of steep stone steps, and were suddenly at the bottom of a beautiful canyon with a river flowing through it. We walked a ways, then lost our yellow arrow.  We retraced our steps, but could not find our trail.  The signs were old, and several had been attached to trees that had fallen down.  We went back to where we thought the trail had to go, and sure enough, saw the yellow arrow, on a fallen tree, pointing right into the river!

We found some stepping stones and crossed, only slipping into the water a few times.  Once across, our trusty yellow arrow pointed us onwards.  The path was steep in many places, next to cliffs that alarmingly dropped to the canyon floor.  It was slippery due to the rain with many roots and rocks waiting to trip us up.  The canyon rocks were covered with lichen and moss, creating beautiful velvety green carpets.  We made it to the main attraction of the trail, a natural stone arch.  After an hour, we were about halfway around the loop.  We could either turn around or keep going.  We chose to keep going.  We saw a steel ladder embedded in the stone descending into the canyon.  George wanted to go that way. I was terrified, and thought it was the wrong way.  Sure enough, I saw a yellow arrow pointing another direction, so we continued on.  Then, the yellow arrows ended and there was no path.    We contined on, following the canyon wall, but no path.  By this time, it is starting to get dark.  Of course, we have no flashlight or water.  After not finding the trail, we decided our only recourse was to turn around and go back the way we came.  

We headed back, and with each step it got darker and darker.  I started looking under cliffs, wondering if we could sleep there if we couldn't get out.  We soldiered on.  Suddenly, we saw a yellow arrow!  Yeah!  We were on our trail again.  We tried to hurry.  The arrows did not let us down.  They guided us on along the loop.  I got caught by some monster thorn bush, and took a while to de-tangle.  We made it back to the river with the stepping stones.  Almost there!  We were back to safey.  It started to drizzle again, but we were ok.  The only thing between us and the car was that steep tunnel of 68 steps. 

Back at the camper, George celebrated our survival....

We were bummed when we found the women's restroom locked up.  I guess they are preparing for winter.  

DINNER:  I had planned on grilled chicken, but the wood was too soaked to light, and George didn't want  stand in the rain trying to get a fire going.  So, I went with Plan B.  I had leftover pasta sauce to use up, so made a pasta dish with scallions, portabellos, sausage, and herbs.  Pretty tasty and romantic.....we ate by candlelight as our camper battery is getting low!

October 14, 2014. Shawnee National Park

CAMPGROUND: Oak Point Campground at Lake Glendale in the national forest.  Electric and non-electric sites.  We chose non-electric @ $6/ night with senior pass.  Beautiful, large wooded sites.  Decent grills.  Nice new bathroom with showers in central area, but too far away to use.  The one near us is being torn down or reconstructed.  Men's side is locked; women's side is war zone.  3 stars out of 5. Nice dark sky, and very quiet, as we have this loop to ourselves. 

LOCATION:  Southeast Illinois near Kentucky. 

WEATHER:  Rain, rain, rain. Highs about 60

It rained all night in Evansville, and we hooked up and got ready between the rain showers.  Our destination was Shawnee National Forest which is spread from the western to eastern border of Illinois.  It was recommended in our guidebook.  The terrain is supposedly unique here and there are lots of hiking trails that lead to springs, canyons, waterfalls and lakes.

It was a short drive of about 90 miles.  We needed to buy groceries.  As we were driving through a little town, we spotted Big John, with bags of groceries in his hands.  Answer to our prayers!

 

It wasn't much of a store, but I got some bargains.  I needed mint for a recipe, and they had the $2.50 containers on sale for $.19!  Hummus was marked down to $.99.

We got set up in the rain and hunkered down inside.  After awhile, we got cabin fever, so bundled up and took a hike in the rain.

George found some mushrooms and read  that they may be edible.  (I will pass).

This  leg of the trip has focused on the Midwest.  Starting in Ann Arbor, Michigan at our daughter's wedding in mid-September,  we went north to the Upper Penindula, then south through Wisconsin and Minnesota.  On to Iowa to see friends and relatives, and to attend my high school reunion, then east to Illinois and Indiana.  It seems we have done a lot in that one month period. From here, we will continue south and east.

The rain will just not stop.  Everything is damp.  George built a fire, but it was hard to get the wet wood and moist paper going.  The fire got hot enough for him to sauté the mushroom he foraged.  (He said it tasted good, and he hasn't died yet!)

DINNER:  Since we had a heavy lunch of leftover BBQ brisket on a sandwich, we decided to eat a light supper.  I made a delicious and easy salad from a recipe I had picked up.  I just mixed these ingredients and let them marinate:  1 can drained chickpeas, 1 diced tomato, 1/2 cup chopped mint, 1/2 cup chopped parsley, 1/2 cup kalamata olives, 1/2 cup crumbled feta cheese, 6 T olive oil, 3 T red wine vinegar, salt and pepper.  George finished some leftover cheesecake he bought at the Evansville BBQ restaurant, as a splurge. 

October 13, 2014. Endless rain in Evansville

CAMPGROUND:  Second night at   City Park. I jokingly said that i should upgrade this from 3 stars to 5 because they said we could stay here free!

LOCATION:  Evansville, Indiana in SW corner of state

WEATHER;  Rain on-and-off during the day; Storms in the evening.  Hot!  Muggy. Highs about 80

We did indoor work during most of the day....laundry, internet business, reading.  I turned on the air conditioner to dry things out.  Between showers, we took a hike on one of the park's beautiful paths.  The colors are terrific.  

In the late afternoon, we went to another brewpub, the Tin Man.  It seems like we have been jinxed each time we drive  into town.  First was the truck/train collision  yesterday blocking the road.  Today, on that same road, a tree had blown down and we had to swerve around it.  Then later this evening, a train was blocking the train crossing, and the alternate route was closed. 

We had a beer and fried green tomatoes appetizer.

While we were there, the sky turned black then green, and tornado warnings were sounded.  

When it let up, we went to a pizza restaurant that someone told us is a "must" here.  We thought it was closed as it was dark inside, but the darkness was from losing electricity due to the storm.  They wouldn't let customers in, so we went back to the camper.  

DINNER:  I made a cabbage/sausage soup with leftovers.  Background was pounding rain on the trailer.

October 12, 2014. Eating in Evansville

CAMPGROUND:  Burdette City Park.  Electricity and water.  Decent showers and flush toilets.  Laundry. $18.  A few permanent campers.  Close to town.  3 stars out of 5.

LOCATION:  Evansville, Indiana in southwest corner of state

WEATHER:  Sprinkles all day. Highs in 60s

We drove about 250 miles southeast from Springfield, Illinois to Evansville, Indiana.  We stayed mostly on back roads so we saw lots of fields and small towns.

Our destination was Evansville because our book "1000 Places to Go Before You Die" recommended a BBQ restaurant here.  Since it is in the general direction we are going, we decided to stop here.  We pulled into an RV park that looked great on its website.  It turned out to be a real dump with mostly permanent residents with junk  all over  the place.  Overflowing dumpster and trailers jammed up together. So, we drove closer into town and found this city park. It is supposed to rain all day tomorrow, so it is good to be near a city.

After setting up, we set off  to one of the microbreweries in town.  On our way, we came across this truck/train crash.  Not sure what happened.  We had to turn around and find an alternate route.  

We drove past the main part of the city.  It is right on the Ohio River.  There were several barges filling up.  Lots of old, abandoned buildings.

We drove on to the microbrewery.  It is in a warehouse area.  We have found that this kind often has the best beer.  I had a rye IPA and George had a "Harry Potter" porter that had been aged in rum barrels.  Really packed a punch. 

From there, we went to the BBQ place featured in the book.  It is an Evansville icon.  Their BBQ style is different from other cities'.  We bought some brisket and pork ends.  Way too much food!

We brought the food back to the camper and ate here, along with a soup I made using up the last of the butternut squash.