January 30, 2015. Soggy Bisbee

CAMPGROUND: 2nd night at Queen Mining Camp RV

WEATHER:  Rain, rain..all day and all night.highs in 50s

There was a cancellation, so we were able to spend another night at this RV park.  We awoke to puddles on the floor.  Oh, no!  We have a small leak around the air vent on top of the camper.  We were able to cover it with a tarp, and made an appointment to get  it repaired when we are in Tucson.

We went on the mine tour which had been recommended.  It was so interesting!  It was in operation Betweeen  in 1890 and 1975.  Copper was the main mineral, and they also mined silver and gold.  We donned protective gear and climbed aboard the ore train.

After the tour, we sloshed through the rain to downtown.  Brewery Gulch turned into Brewery River!  We returned to the brewpub and had their delicious vegan chile for lunch.

We stayed inside during the afternoon and evening, as it was too miserable to go out.  We are having record rain here.  

DINNER:  New Mexico pazole.  This is a popular Mexican stew using Hatch, New Mexico peppers.  It is a chicken soup with chunks of chicken, onions, and hominy.  Very hearty!

January 29, 2015. Fun Bisbee

CAMPGROUND:  Queen Ann Mining RV Park.  Commercial park overlooking town.  Big circle with rigs backed in around perimeter.  A few picnic tables.  Nice showers.  Full hook-ups.  $30/night. 4 stars

LOCATION:  Bisbee in in southeast Arizona.  We are about 15 miles north of Mexican borde

WEATHER:  Nice during the dish. Highs around 60.  Rain started in evening

We drove through the high desert, about 7500 feet, through miles of scrub brush.  We stopped in Douglas, New Mexico for lunch.  We ate in a Mexican restaurant just footsteps from Mexico.  Our lunch was beef strips in a chile sauce.  Very interesting.  We were the only English-speaking people.  

On to Bisbee, which we had heard is a fun town.  On the outskirts, we got a little lost and ended up in sort of a time warp.....

Bisbee used to be a major copper mining area, and at one time it was the biggest city between New Orleans and San Francisco.  It was full of saloons and brothels.  Now it has been turned into art galleries, shops, restaurants and bars.  We stopped at their brewpub, located on Brewery Gulch.  

We had planned to stay here through Sunday, but learned that the RV patk is filled.  We will find something else nearby.  We can't go to the Tucson area yet, as it is filled with Super Bowl overflow.  

DINNER:  George grilled burgers on the propane grill.  (Fires not allowed).  We added jalapeño peppers and onions.  We ate them on jalapeño cheese buns.  Good!

January 28, 2015. Gila Cliff Dwellings

CAMPGROUND:  Second night Rose Valley RV Park

WEATHER:  Perfect!  Sunny. Highs in low 60s

We drove about two hours into another part of the Gila National Forest.  The roads were impossibly scarier than yesterday's.  After much gasping, I finally just had to hide my head.  :-)

The end point was the Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument.  We hiked about a mile up to the caves.  The trail was muddy and icy, a bit challenging.

Indians lived here in the 13th century.  We spoke with several volunteers who guided us through.  I asked them whether they make the hairy drive each day.  They don't....  The government puts them up in dorms and RVs near the caves so they don't have to commute.

Back in Silver City, we returned to the historic downtown to do some shopping.  We stopped by a famous restaurant for a glass of wine, and the food co-op to buy herbs from the bulk section.  It is such a good way to buy small quantities.

We bought gas for $1.71/gallon, and were thrilled.  Then, we saw it for $1.59!

DINNER:  Gourmet risotto.  I added mushrooms and bits of a leftover grilled porkchop. It really turned out well.  Side dish was green beans with sautéed green onions.   

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January 27, 2015. Tasty New Mexico!

CAMPGROUND:  Rose Valley Ranch RV Park.  Full hook-ups.  Great bathrooms, laundry, book exchange and exercise room.  Private sites.  No picnic tables or firepits.  4 stars. $31/night.  Free wifi, but doesn't work.

LOCATION: Silver City, New Mexico in south central New Mexico

WEATHER:  Beautiful.  Sunny and warm. High about 70

We visited Hatch, New Mexico, famous for its Hatch peppers.

The small town consists of pepper stores and Mexican restaurants featuring Hatch peppers. They host a big chile festival in August.

We stopped here and bought a bag of ones designated as "hot".  

I need to find some recipes to use them up.

We drove on a farm road, and passed miles and miles of pepper fields.  There are also many pecan orchards here.

Then, we drove west through the mountains to Silver City.  We drove through a part of the Gila National Forest, about 40 miles of 10-mph hairpin curves.  I did a lot of gasping.  :-). Not many guardrails.

Silver City was our destination.  Someone had recommended this RV park.  We will stay 2 nights and enjoy an urban area for awhile.  

We strolled through the historic downtown, recommended in our guidebook "10,000 Places to Go Before You Die".  It has cute shops and some fine dining restaurants.  We stopped at Toad Creek Brewery and Distillery.  I had an unfiltered double IPA; George had their stout.  We ordered gourmet pigs-in-a-blanket as an appetizer.  Yum!

 

DINNER:  Greek pasta.  I found this recipe which turned out quite good....penne pasta covered with a sauce made from chickpeas, garlic, pepper flakes (I substituted a poblano pepper I needed to use up), bell pepper slices, and kalamata olives.  Topped with feta cheese.  We paired it with a Carmenere from Chile. 

January 26, 2015. Good-bye, Texas! Hello, New Mexico!

CAMPGROUND:  Leasburg Dam State Park. Electricity and water, although all sites were filled.  We had to dry camp. On ridge, with beautiful views. Regular sites have individual adobe picnic shelters. 5 stars. $8/night. Regular sites are $14.

LOCATION:  Near Las Cruces, New Mexico, in south central part of state.

WEATHER:  Pleasant. High around 60

Once the water pipes thawed, we left Hueco Tanks park in west Texas and headed north.  We drove through the outskirts of El Paso.  It's hard to believe it is the USA, and not Mexico.  All the signs are in Spanish.  Lors of Mexican restaurants like this one...

.  We dove about 75 miles to White Sands National Monument in New Mexico.   It was really interesting.  We took the 8-mile "scenic drive" into the dunes.  After about a mile, the dreaded "Pavement Ends" sign appeared.  The road turned into a matted sand path, like driving on the beach.  Guess who was driving!!

It really is beautiful.  It had snowed a few days ago, and the white snow mixed with the off-white sand.

People can rent sleds here to play in the sand.  George threw a sand/snowball.

The White Sands Missile Range/Proving Grounds is here, too, and we could hear and see jets around us.  The area outside the monument is desolate....making for a good place to shoot missiles, I guess.

We drove on through Las Cruces, stopping at a brewpub for a beer.

Then to this state park.  We took a 2-mile hike to the Rio Grande that runs through here.  Unfortunately all the sites with amenities were full, so we dry-camped, meaning no electricity or water.  Not a big problem, as our water tank was full, and we can use propane for cooking and heating.

DINNER:  I made a recipe that Rachael Ray did on a show featuring healthy eating.  It was a pretty good stew made with potatoes, onions, green beans, and tomatoes.  I jazzed it up with herbs and jalapeños. 

January 25, 2015. West Texas High Desert

CAMPGROUND: Hueco Tanks State Park.  Only 16 sites. Nestled under boulder cliffs. Nice bathrooms. Electricity and water. 5 stars. $16/night

LOCATION:  Outside of El Paso, Texas.  Far SW border. Near New Mexico

WEATHER:  Sunny. Pleasant. High around 60

We took one last look at Marfa, including this Lost Horse Bar where we had stopped for $1 beers yesterday. 

Then, 190 miles north and west through the high desert toward our destination.  This has been our route through Texas. 

Again, huge ranches with nothing other than sage brush.  Tumbleweeds tumbled down the highway.  We took a shortcut to avoid the interstate.  We saw a cowboy galloping around his land.  We went about 75 miles without seeing any buildings or towns.

We came across a run-down restaurant in the middle of nowhere advertising the "world's best burger".  (Who makes these decisions?). The town's population is posted as 5-6.  We split their "famous" burger and ordered a jalapeño on the side.  It was very interesting to listen to the other customers.  One conversation was a table headed by a man speaking like a preacher, to his congregation of his table of 4.  The other table, in contrast, was a group of ranchers talking about answering the door with a loaded shotgun to a stranger yelling, "what the hell are you doing here?" 

We stopped for the night at this state park which is well-known by rock climbers. It is an archaeological site.  Part of the registration was a required orientation, emphasizing the protection of the rocks and trails.  We hiked around and saw some of the ancient petroglyphs.  We talked to a rock climber.  Then, as we were leaving the trail section, the rangers came to rescue someone who had fallen.  Soon, we heard helicopters.  

We have a majestic campsite

And a neat picnic area...

We entered Mountain  Time Zone, but aren't acclimated to it yet.  We ate early and went to bed.  No TV or internet. 

DINNER:  Nachos.  A great way to use leftovers......chips, cheese, diced pork chop, salsa, jalapeños, poblanos, black beans, and a perfectly ripe avocado.  

January 24, 2015. Quirky Marfa

CAMPGROUND:  Tumble Inn RV Park.  5 stars.  Full hook-ups in a dusty, desert-weeded field.  Nice bathrooms.  Great commons area with kitchen and laundry. $24/night

LOCATION:  Marfa, in SW Texas

WEATHER:  Still cold, but sunny. Highs about 50

We left Alpine, passing by Big Bend Brewery where we had done the tour.

Marfa is only a short drive, 35 miles.  We were here last year, and loved it.  It is a cowboy town that is also an artists' colony.  Some benefactor has created an art foundation here.  Almost every building is also an art gallery.  It is also known for its historic hotel where the cast of the movie "Giant" (Rick Hudson, James Dean, Elizabeth Taylor) stayed while filming the movie.

There are only 6 campers in the RV park, 4 of which are Air Streams.  Downtown, there are several Air Streams converted to food trucks.  

We rode our  bikes into town to explore dinner options.  Unfortunately, not much was open.  Several places are only open starting in March.  So, we came back to the campground.  Everything is laid back here.  This is the office where payment is on an honor system.

There is a nice commons area with a fire pit.

Inside, there is a kitchen area with an old-fashioned wood stove.  George grilled pork chops on top.

We listened to the trains running next to the campground all night long.

DINNER:  Along with the porkchops, we had a salad, and beans and rice.

January 23, 2015. Awesome Alpine, Texas!

CAMPGROUND:  We extended our stay at Lost Alaskan RV park, due to the weather.  We didn't want to be unhooking and hooking up in the cold, and this RV park  is probably the best place to wait out the cold. 

WEATHER:  Cold in the AM.  Snow stopped early.  The sun came out and melted everything. Highs in 40s

We awoke to a winter wonderland....about 3 inches of snow.

It immediately started melting.  We listened to ice and snow falling off the camper.

The altitude here is about 4500 feet.  There are snow-capped mountains around us.

It was interesting to see the snow covering palm trees and cacti...

We had a fun afternoon.  First, we had lunch in this upscale cowboy restaurant.

The name Reata means Rope in Spanish.  It is the name of the ranch in the movie Giant that was filmed here years ago, with Rock Hudson, James Dean, and Elizabeth Taylor.  This restaurant is part of one if Texas's largest ranches.  We shared carne asada with cheese enchiladas.  The beef is from their ranch, super tender.

After shopping, we went to Big Bend Brewery for their tour.  What fun!  The people were so interesting to talk with.  Our tour guide used to be a full-time RVer, too.  For $10, we got a 2-hour tour, all the beer we wanted to sample, 2 pint glasses, and two six packs.  I liked their IPA; George had their winter seasonal.

DINNER:  Baked potato covered with a meat and blue cheese sauce.  Hearty!

January 22, 2015. Snow on the cactus!

CAMPGROUND:  2nd night at Lost Alaskan

WEATHER:  Cold.  Wet snow on and off all day. High 31

We did indoor activities all day....computer work using complimentary wifi, laundry in a cozy, warm laundry, etc.

The highlight of the day, our only adventure out in the snow, was dinner at The Saddle Club.  It is an upscale cowboy restaurant/bar.  Locals in their cowboy hats and boots.  

 

Their menu was interesting.  

We had a great dinner....sharing French onion soup and grilled rainbow trout.  George peeked outside at the patio where he saw snow falling on the cactus.  

The smokers braved the cold and snow on the patio....

Back tthrough the snow to the camper, we unhooked the water hose as it will certainly freeze tonight.  It seems so strange to have this cold and snow since we are so far south....about 80 miles from the Mexican border.

January 21, 2015. More West Texas!

CAMPGROUND:  Lost Alaskan RV park.  5+ stars. Full hook-ups, RV wash area, library, wonderful laundry, pristine heated bathrooms/showers.  $30/ night.  Free wifi.  Manager accompanies campers to their sites, and helps set up. 

LOCATION:  Alpine, Texas.  About 75 miles north of Big Bend National Park. 

WEATHER:  Light rain all day. Highs about 50.  Snow predicted tonight

We were in this part of Texas last year, so it is kind of nice returning to favorite places.  Our destination was this RV park which we discovered last year.  

We drove about 180 miles west.  We stopped in this cute town called Marathon.  Unlike other poor, desolate-looking towns along the way, this one seems prosperous.  Its main claim to fame is it is located at one if the entrance roads to Big Bend, as well as this historic hotel that has been beautifully maintained.

We wished we hadn't picnicked on the way, as this would have been a good place for lunch.

It was formerly a ranch house. 

On to Alpine and to the campground. George dropped off his bicycle at a bike shop we had used last year, for some maintenance.  

DINNER:  Spaghetti using the last of the Louisiana sausage, artichoke hearts, onion, tomatoes and garlic.  Sautéed kale with green onions on the side.

January 20, 2015. Back to Seminole Canyon

CAMPGROUND:  Seminole Canyon State Park.  Drop-dead views of sunrise and sunset over canyon.  Nice bathrooms. Electricity and water. Dump station.  Shelters at each site.  $20/night.  5 stars

LOCATION:  40 miles west of Del Rio, in southwest Texas

WEATHER:  Beautiful. Sunny. High around 80.  Cool at night

We left Laredo and drove another 200 miles northwest.  Texas is certainly big!  The landscape was much the same....scrub brush, some sugar cane fields, oil fields, lots of dust.  We spotted lots of road kill....coyote, fox, white tail deer, mule deer,  hawk, and raccoon.  Lots of big trucks going 80+ mph.  

We followed the Mexico border, going north, then west paralleling the Rio Grande.  We can see towns in Mexico across the river.  We has to stop twice for border patrol inspections.

We stopped in Del Rio for gas, as we are approaching the area where we ran out of gas last year, and didn't want to repeat that.

We stopped at Seminole Canyon as we knew it is a great place.  Last year, we were here during spring break and has to stay in the overflow area.  This time, it isn't crowded yet.  We are on top of the canyon, and have gorgeous views of Mexican mountains.

Everyone is so friendly here.  Our neighbor is from Portland, and gave us some tips on  Oregon campgrounds.  Then, a great couple from Toronto stopped by.  We told them about South Padre Islsnd where they plan to visit, and they shared their experiences and advice about camping in Mexico.  We are strongly thinking about going south from Tucson to a village on the bay.

    

DINNER:  A very pleasant surprise.  I found a recipe for grits and greens, and it turned out really well....combined chopped bacon, bell peppers, onion, kale (I substituted for collard greens), canned diced tomatoes, and black-eyed peas.  After this cooks, add cooked grits (I substituted polenta).

 

January 19, 2015. On to West Texas!

CAMPGROUND:  Lake Casa Blanca International  State Park.  5 stars. $18/night.  Beautiful bathrooms.  Electricity and water.  Shelters at each site.  Quiet.  Our site overlooks the lake. Beautiful night views of city

LOCATION:  Laredo, Texas in southwestern side of state. On the Mexican border.

WEATHER:  Beautiful. Highs in mid-70s.  Cool at night for sleeping.

We packed up from South Padre Island and drove about 200 miles northwest through a sparsely populated, poor, dusty, cactus-filled, scrub-brush landscape.  Before we started, we shopped at a grocery store near South Padre Island, knowing that we needed to stock up before we left civilization.  I love the grocery stores here.  They sell warm tortillas in the produce section.

Cilantro is $.25; huge pink grapefruit $.20; avocados $.50, limes $.15, etc.  

Texas is a huge state, and it takes a long time to drive across it.  This map shows where we have been:

1.  Goose Island, near Corpus Christi

2. South Padre Island

3.  Laredo, where we are now.  

We'll continue to hear northwest tomorrow.

This state park is quite nice, on a lake that actually has water.  Last year, most of the lakes in state parks were dried up, due to drought.  We hiked around and then George washed the sea salt off the camper and truck.  The landscape is pretty barren.  We saw roadrunners and rabbits in the brush.

DINNER:  Texas grilled rib-eye.  George cooked the steak over the hibachi.  We had a side salad, and baked potato.  I served the steak with chimichurri sauce, and paired it with a Malbec, to give an Argentine twist to the evening. 

January 18, 2015. Fun-filled day on South Padre Island

CAMPGROUND:  8th (and final) night at Isla Blanca

WEATHER:  Sunny. Highs around 70.  Perfect!

We had a busy day, taking advantage of the nice weather.  

First, we biked around the island, and stopped at a restaurant across the street featuring free nachos during the football game.  

Then, we took a drive to the northern part of the island.  We passed lots of tourist shops like this one.

We stopped at Padre Island Brewpub to fill up our growler, to be prepared for potential "dry" places ahead.  George filled it with Nortena, their winter warmer ale.

Back at the campground, we prepared for tomorrow's departure, including loading the bikes up.

We joined neighbor friends from the U.P. Michigan whom we met last year, and walked to a bay front restaurant near the campground.  We sat outside, and watched the porpoises frolic in the bay, and the seagulls searching for food.  You can see our campground across the water.

We had $1.99 margaritas on the deck.

 

We watched the sun set and fishing boats returning from a day in the Gulf.

DINNER:  Grilled cheese and salami sandwiches with the muffaletta spread from Louisiana.  Side dish was browned okra.  Grocery shopping tomorrow!

January 17, 2015. This is more like it!

CAMPGROUND:  7th night at Isla Blanca Park

WEATHER:  Sunny. Beautiful. Highs in 60s

The sun is so great to see again!  Lots of people are out and about.  

We took the island shuttle to a sophisticated hamburger joint that serves good craft beers and wines with their all-natural burgers.  Wine bottles were half price, so I had a glass of wine and took the bottle home.

We missed the shuttle back, so had a nice, long walk.  

Yesterday, we watched a fresh fish delivery at next door Dirty Al's restaurant and seafood market, so we knew the fish is fresh.  We decided to buy some and cook ourselves.  The manager gave us a sample of basa, the filets ready to sell  fresh in the market.  He had some fried basa in the back.  We liked it, so bought a filet.  ($4.00).  Not sure what basa is.....something like sea bass. 

DINNER:  We blackened the filet on the hibachi.  Very tasty.  Sides were grits with sautéed onions and garlic, and Lima beans.  The cupboard is getting a bit bare.  Will need to go shopping again soon.